I've got a car with horrible surface lifting, but I don't ha

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:19 pm
Here is my problem. Let me start out by saying were talking about a car that I'm going to sell for ONLY $3500 NOT a show car.

I've got a car I'm selling, and the top surfaces are all horrible. Looks like someone took a razor, and went up/down the surface a million times.

Of course its just the factory paint starting to die from neglect [not me].

Here is my dilemma. I don't have time to do a show car type paint job on this car. I took the paint down to the factory self etching primer on the hood, and still have gaps where I went through the self etching primer with my sander.

I don't have time to go all the way to the bare metal, but I've painted enough cars now over 30 years to know that even with a couple of heavy coats of Nason 2k primer those gaps through the SE primer is still going to show through the new paint. [of course the car is black].

Here is what I was thinking. Would it work to just mix, and apply the Nason 2k with a brush vs spraying it on?

This way I would get a much thicker coat, of primer which should [in theory] fill in all of those gaps where I went through the factory primer. That way I shouldn't have as much finishing sanding to do, or coats of paint with the spray gun [where lots of the primer will be wasted into the air].

Also, the top of the car is the same way. So, I don't even want to go past the factory top coat of primer, BUT the cracks are going to still be in the primer. Again, I was thinking by applying the primer with a brush it should fill in those cracks vs spraying.

Once again, while I want the car to look decent [single stage Nason urethane paint] I don't have the time, nor can I afford to go all out. Plus its hitting 95 degrees out here so I have to shut down before noon.

Anyone tried this? Opinions? Thanks.

Here is a pic of the hood before I started stripping. [the top is similar, but I can't stay up all night waiting on Imgur to upload].
Image



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:49 pm
I could sand the hood, top and trunk lid down to bare metal have a cold beer in about an hour what are you using to sand it with? if your using a da hopefully a 6" lock the orbital out and put some 36 grit on it and go to town. it will be much easier to just sand a little further to bare metal rather than some hokiest pokist way that may not work.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:04 am
badsix wrote:I could sand the hood, top and trunk lid down to bare metal have a cold beer in about an hour what are you using to sand it with? if your using a da hopefully a 6" lock the orbital out and put some 36 grit on it and go to town. it will be much easier to just sand a little further to bare metal rather than some hokiest pokist way that may not work.
Jay D.


I''ve been using a straight line sander with 36 grit.

Also a grinder with a wire brush.



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 10:14 am
do you have a DA sander ?
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 12:59 pm
badsix wrote:do you have a DA sander ?
Jay D.



I do, buts old as in 1980's old......lol.

IIRC it ran my compressor to death. My compressor is 60 gal/5hp. I do have two smaller compressors I'm thinking about joining together to take the work off of the one big compressor.

So a good DA sander would make quick work of all of this?



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 1:08 pm
it would be better than the straight line sander your using, IF you can lock out the orbital mode. with 36 grit paper on a 6 " pad it should go quite fast theres nothing wrong with an 80s sander if its in good condition put a couple drops of oil in the air inlet before you put the hose on. just a couple drops you don't want to spray oil all over everything
Jay D..
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:02 pm
Ok, thanks I will give it a try.

FTR, I don't mind stripping a car down to bare metal if its an old Mustang, or something valuable, but for this car it just isn't worth the effort.

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