Pointers on wet sanding please

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 3:13 pm
This is a recently purchased vehicle and previously had some damage from hitting a deer.
I'm not sure the professionalism of the paint shop, overall looks good but there is one paint run that stands out and would like to get some advise on wet sanding and what grit paper to use. I have a spray can of the color from the color code and would like to do a good job.
Any suggestions please, thanks...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 3:37 pm
leave it alone is my advice. you will very likely make it worse
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 9:28 am
Maybe someone could point me too where there is an explanation of wet sanding please.



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 11:58 am
Here is what I know about wet sanding from doing it. I looked for lots of pointers or videos and could not find many...
1. I used 400 grit to wet sand off several bad attempts at applying base coat. This wet sanding was in the drive with a garden hose on low to keep things lubricated.
2. There is a huge amount of "feel" involved. For example a new piece of 400 grit will really work, and work fast, and you can feel it. After a few square feet the feel changes and the paper is probably now 600 or 800 grit due to wear.
3. I did use spray bottles to wet and sand smaller areas. I also used a bucket with some dish soap in it. Ultimately it is very difficult to hold the paper unless wrapped on a block. I was not following conventional wisdom and was using 1/3rd sheets by hand.
4. If you don't want to ruin paint all around your "run", use a stiff block, finer paper (say 1000 or more), and go very slow. Trust me 400 to 600 will take it all off in no time.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 12:41 pm
PainterDave wrote:leave it alone is my advice. you will very likely make it worse


If all you have is a rattle can and no experience in wet sanding and buffing, then I am with Painterdave on this.

Do you know how many coats of clear are on the car?
Do you know what to do if you sand too far and hit the base coat?

Better to pay a professional detailer to handle this if you don't.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 5:32 pm
i'm also with Dave and 68 RT it's really a job that's looks simple but with out a lot of experience it can be a real letdown. there are a lot of tools to deal with runs, file blocks, stones, razor blades, plus tools to hold razors and many more. here's something you could try being a noob. run a strip of masking tape tight to each side of the run. cut the run down with paper, 400 is a good start. be VERY carful what your paper is doing, might be good to mask out 6" with the tape. cut the run down to the thickness of the tape then pull the tape and finish it off with some 600 if your going to repaint. watch VERY carefully what your paper is doing. if your going to buff finish with 800 then 1000 after the 600 and buff. so what color are we playing with?
Jay D.
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