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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:24 am
Location: Mansfield,Texas
PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:15 pm
Just applied ********** solid color white basecoat. It is sandable. Got a few niblets in it. Plan on sanding them out in the morning. Should I use 1000 grit? Do I have to spray more base after touching these up? Thanks for any advice never did this. Attempted to contact ********** tech but no luck.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:34 pm
Yes, you can sand it with 1000 to denib and then spray your remaining coats.


Part Number:
#2000-1 Basecoat Gallon
#2000-4 Basecoat Quart

Mix: 1:1
Mix one part of ********** base color with one part of ********** urethane reducer. This is a very high
concentrated base, so it is very important that you use the proper grade urethane reducer
for your painting conditions. Use only ********** Reducers 870, 885 or 895!

Note:
If you over-reduce True Black you could change the color slightly when viewed
outside, so do not over-reduce it!

Activated Base:
It is your option to activate the ********** base color. ********** base colors may be activated using 1-2 ounces of any ********** clear activator per mixed (reduced) quart.

Spraying:
********** base can be applied over any ********** Primer, Sealer or Epoxy. Adjust your gun (1.4 tip is best) so the color lays wet and slick. Spray your first coat like you would your last coat of clear. Let flash 30 minutes or more and than spray second coat the same way. Some colors may need a third coat for coverage.

Clearing:
We recommend you wait 60 minutes before spraying your first coat of clear over the base
color. If it were high humidity or raining allowing more time would always be a plus.
When using on restorations or street rods we recommend the base set over night and
cleared next day. See “The perfect paint job”

Notes:
NEVER use fast reducer in ANY ********** Basecoat and ********** #870 should be the fastest
reducer regardless of temperature.

When using ********** True Black Basecoat NEVER use a Fast/60 degree reducer and
never use a cheap low quality reducer or you will see a brown cast in the black. Use **********
870 for cool conditions and ********** 885 or ********** 895 for warmer conditions and you may
substitute a known high grade reducer of comparable speed for your application. If you
are unaware of the quality of a substitute reducer please call us first and we’ll be happy to
advise you on its suitability.
Using too fast of a reducer in a color will actually slow down the drying process. The top
will skim too soon, then it will take longer for the remaining solvents to escape, and the
results can be:
• Solvent pop in the clear or the second coat of clear may look like it fisheyes.
• Die back of clear over the next few days and possible loss of clear adhesion.
• Remember, black, dark reds, yellows and dark blues are the slower drying colors and longer flash times needed.

We strongly recommend our basecoats be activated 1-2% per mixed quart with any
of our clear activators.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:24 am
Location: Mansfield,Texas
PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:38 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Yes, you can sand it with 1000 to denib and then spray your remaining coats.


Part Number:
#2000-1 Basecoat Gallon
#2000-4 Basecoat Quart

Mix: 1:1
Mix one part of ********** base color with one part of ********** urethane reducer. This is a very high
concentrated base, so it is very important that you use the proper grade urethane reducer
for your painting conditions. Use only ********** Reducers 870, 885 or 895!
Thanks its hot here so I used the very slow 895. looking good except just a couple paint specks. Dont know how I got those paint specks in there I throughly cleaned my gund and strained paint. Kind of a mystery to me.
Note:
If you over-reduce True Black you could change the color slightly when viewed
outside, so do not over-reduce it!

Activated Base:
It is your option to activate the ********** base color. ********** base colors may be activated using 1-2 ounces of any ********** clear activator per mixed (reduced) quart.

Spraying:
********** base can be applied over any ********** Primer, Sealer or Epoxy. Adjust your gun (1.4 tip is best) so the color lays wet and slick. Spray your first coat like you would your last coat of clear. Let flash 30 minutes or more and than spray second coat the same way. Some colors may need a third coat for coverage.

Clearing:
We recommend you wait 60 minutes before spraying your first coat of clear over the base
color. If it were high humidity or raining allowing more time would always be a plus.
When using on restorations or street rods we recommend the base set over night and
cleared next day. See “The perfect paint job”

Notes:
NEVER use fast reducer in ANY ********** Basecoat and ********** #870 should be the fastest
reducer regardless of temperature.

When using ********** True Black Basecoat NEVER use a Fast/60 degree reducer and
never use a cheap low quality reducer or you will see a brown cast in the black. Use **********
870 for cool conditions and ********** 885 or ********** 895 for warmer conditions and you may
substitute a known high grade reducer of comparable speed for your application. If you
are unaware of the quality of a substitute reducer please call us first and we’ll be happy to
advise you on its suitability.
Using too fast of a reducer in a color will actually slow down the drying process. The top
will skim too soon, then it will take longer for the remaining solvents to escape, and the
results can be:
• Solvent pop in the clear or the second coat of clear may look like it fisheyes.
• Die back of clear over the next few days and possible loss of clear adhesion.
• Remember, black, dark reds, yellows and dark blues are the slower drying colors and longer flash times needed.

We strongly recommend our basecoats be activated 1-2% per mixed quart with any
of our clear activators.

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