Hi guys
I am in the process of "washing off" 15-20% of a failed attempt at applying single stage acrylic enamel with hardener. I am a novice, but I've had great experiences in the past with painting over two dozen cars, trucks and motorcycles.
I'm doing this small MAZDA truck on the cheap for a relative, and I think I'm getting schooled on cutting corners and proper material selection.
The paint is Martin Senour CROSSFIRE acrylic enamel with hardener, being applied old school syphon feed gun, as I don't have a big enough compressor for HVLP.
Anyway....got the body work done, wet sanded the whole truck and washed down with NAPTHA that someone gave me.......and I THINK this is where I went wrong. Normally I would have used wax and grease remover followed by Simple Green, which has always worked great for me.
When I started to put down the paint, it immediately fish eyed, like I had washed it down with MOTOR OIL! Also, it mottled, went on sandy dry in some areas, and ran like crazy, a problem that I have had VERY little over the years.
Ran to the store and washed the truck all over again with isopropyl alcohol 75/25, tried to paint again with the same results. I'm sure the paint will be toast by morning, but if you can help me before I use replacement products I'd REALLY appreciate it!
THANKS A TON!
Frank

Automotive Wax and Grease Remove is the only thing to use.

Don't follow it with anything else just simply spray or wipe it on and then wipe it off immediately before it dries with a clean towel. Repeat this process if necessary until the wipe off towel comes up clean.

Your local Auto Body and Paint store should have some on the shelf.

With two failed attempts on there I would be inclined to wet sand it with 600 grit, then wipe it clean with W&G remover and let it flash off for 30 minutes before spraying.

By the way, you should be wearing gloves similar to these:
http://www.toolpan.com/SAS-Safety-66519 ... W0QAvD_BwE

Thank you!
I was just blown away by this. I went back out to the garage after posting, and in an attempt to salvage what I could of the paint, I blew down the compressor I was using, changed my inline filter AND tried my backup compressor wll with the same disastrous result.
Well, now while I wait for my replacement product to arrive via TCP Global I have some dewaxing/degreasing to do!!
And thanks for the tip on the gloves. I hope they're available locally.
Thanks again!

Naptha is greasy stuff. It might be hard to get off the primer, so if you're going
to sand again, I'd wash it down using TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate). It's the best
grease cutter going. Wash it first, because the sanding will force the naptha
oils into the primer. Then follow with sanding, then the W&G remover as
previously stated.

Just looked up this Naptha stuff. Not what you want to be cleaning with... It has paraffin in it. Hello fisheyes!!!! You will probably have a hard time getting ALL that stuff off. If it were me I might even try gasoline as a pre-cleaner. Good luck bro.

From the web:

"This chemical is often categorized into one of two categories: aliphatic, or "light," and aromatic, or "heavy." Aliphatic compounds contain more of a chemical compound called paraffin."

Problem with what you run into with Naphtha is the different "grades" and reprocessing of it. Most guys just get it from the local big box stores. The stuff we use in our wood shops as a degreaser doesn't contain the waxes and is not contaminated with other stuff that simple sand filters don't get when they do salvage chemicals. It may say Naphtha on the can but it can have a lot of other nasties in it. Just stick with auto grade wax and grease removers.

DarrelK wrote: . . . Just stick with auto grade wax and grease removers.

Yes, use the stuff that is made for what you are doing.

You can and should wash the car first but you can do that with soap (plain dish soap or detergent will work) and water. Be sure to rinse well and then wet sand everything with 600 grit, rinse well again, blow dry with compressed air let set for a while to be sure it is completely dry.

Wipe down with W&G has stated above, let flash 30 minutes or so depending on temperatures and your ready to spray.

I would do everthing above, but i would wipe it down with W/G remover first then do as above. but i'm a little anel about things that cause problems. in your case where you know you have a contaminate use your W/G remover liberly. you can use a spray bottle to soak it down then wipe dry with clean rags. wear rubber gloves W/G will take oils out of your skin then your skin will crack open. usually your finger tips, very painfull and takes several weeks to heal up.
Jay D.