2K Clear Over Duplicolor....Ugh

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:15 pm
I know this won't be received well by many, as Duplicolor is lacquer and not as durable as a urethane...plus the chance of compatibility issues with the 2k clear (Spraymax/Eastwood), but I've see that many people have had success with this recipe so I'm going to give it a try. Before I start I will say that my first choice would have been to have my local guy mix up a can for me, but that particular Finishmasters doesn't do it...and it would be a 2 hour drive to have it done.

So my question is how long do you have to wait for the base (Duplicolor) to dry before spraying the clear? And if it's longer than a day do you have to scuff the base as well?



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 6:47 pm
I've done a lot of Harley tins with Harley paint that is lacquer then top coated with urethane clear and never had any problems. I just looked at a tank and fenders I did about 12 years ago and I was even amazed, they looked perfect. now this was bulk acrylic lacquer that I sprayed on, then spayed 2-3 coats of clear lacquer. a couple days later I would sand the clear and send them to the striper. when they came back I would let them dry as long as possible then clear with urethane clear. lacquer drys fast but takes a long time to cure. if you have a hi film build on your work you'll want to let it cure as long as possible. i'm not sure how you will come out with your Duplicolor but let it dry as long as you can and yes you will need to sand or scuff it.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 10:24 am
badsix wrote:I've done a lot of Harley tins with Harley paint that is lacquer then top coated with urethane clear and never had any problems. I just looked at a tank and fenders I did about 12 years ago and I was even amazed, they looked perfect. now this was bulk acrylic lacquer that I sprayed on, then spayed 2-3 coats of clear lacquer. a couple days later I would sand the clear and send them to the striper. when they came back I would let them dry as long as possible then clear with urethane clear. lacquer drys fast but takes a long time to cure. if you have a hi film build on your work you'll want to let it cure as long as possible. i'm not sure how you will come out with your Duplicolor but let it dry as long as you can and yes you will need to sand or scuff it.
Jay D.


Thanks for the reply. That is a good idea, to use lacquer clear as well as base, prior to 2k. I had wanted to try a metallic and was worried about sanding the metallic directly and messing up the flake/look. This way I would only be scuffing the clear.

When you say as long as possible, are we talking a week...month...etc?



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:14 am
In your case I would do at least a couple days try and put it out in the sun this will help. and yes put 3-4 good wet coats of clear on so you can lightly sand before the urethane. you don't say what it is that your doing, but you can also lay your color with the lacquer then spray 4-5 coats of clear lacquer if your using cans 7-8 let dry and buff. lacquer buffs real easy. the reason to let it set for as long as you can is lacquer usually takes multiple coats especially if there are other colors and or clear. the film build gets to be quite thick it dries fast but takes several days to weeks to cure just depends on how thick the build is. buy cure what mean as it cures it shrinks, it may have bad orange peel you'll sand it smooth a few days later it will have the o/p again until its fully cured.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 2:12 pm
badsix wrote:In your case I would do at least a couple days try and put it out in the sun this will help. and yes put 3-4 good wet coats of clear on so you can lightly sand before the urethane. you don't say what it is that your doing, but you can also lay your color with the lacquer then spray 4-5 coats of clear lacquer if your using cans 7-8 let dry and buff. lacquer buffs real easy. the reason to let it set for as long as you can is lacquer usually takes multiple coats especially if there are other colors and or clear. the film build gets to be quite thick it dries fast but takes several days to weeks to cure just depends on how thick the build is. buy cure what mean as it cures it shrinks, it may have bad orange peel you'll sand it smooth a few days later it will have the o/p again until its fully cured.
Jay D.


Thanks for the specifics. As far as what it is that I am doing...I have a few projects I have been putting off. I have a bumper touch up, a tailgate, and a bike fender that I have put off painting. If I can get this to come out good I think it opens the door some interesting colors that would be readily available in spray bombs.



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:46 pm
well I'd go for it. I did do some clear urethane over some shaker can stuff. it was a stainless steel look paint in a can looked great but didn't have the gloss I wanted. I did a motorcycle frame and clear coated it with a good urethane clear during the sensitive stage like you would B/C. it looked great but didn't adhere well at all, when it started to come off you could blow it off with a garden hose. i'm not sure what type of material this was but it didn't work. I think you'll be ok buy sanding your lacquer first then apply the urethane.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:11 pm
I shoot a fair amount of Harley tin and all HD basecoats are available through PPG in DBC unless proprietary. Those who do HD paintwork might benefit from this.



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 10:45 pm
most of the ones I did the people would bring me a tank and two fenders and a quart of Harley lacquer they bought at the dealer. but your right B/C is available. the last one I did about a year ago Harley discontinued the color, couldn't find it anywhere. my jobber got me the color in B/C form PPG they still had the formula . it sure makes it easier with the B/C.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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