I do have a regulator at the gun. I will try to sneak a peek at the pressure throughout the spraying.

the gun is an Eastwood Concourse - I picked it up for its low cfm properties, supposedly it was specifically designed to work with the DIY set up... home compressors and what not.

the compressor seems to keep up (although it is running through 90% of the spray time.)

Small compressors are a much bigger problem than some would like to admit.
The continuous running will produce somewhat of a pulsing effect if the tank empties too quickly. Also, the air heats up and more moisture is produced.

Personally, I tried the lower end guns for the all the same reasons most beginners do but then had a chance to spray with a SATA 2000 (yeah that was a while ago) and what a difference! This prompted me to do a search for the guns the pros use and two came to the top of the list - SATA and IWATA. The Iwata LPH400 silver cap (1.4) uses less CFM and pressure so I purchased a used one to try.
This was 10 years ago and I still have and use the gun.
I also have a DeVilbiss Tekna Copper that sprays real nice but requires more CFM and Pressure than the Iwata.

The point being, if you are going to get serious about painting cars, two things will make your life a whole lot easier. A minimum 7 hp 80 gallon compressor and a quality spray gun or two, or three, or thirty. LOL

I completely agree!
the only reason I am using this set up is because sadly I do not have 220v in the garage.
as mentioned before this is the first time ive done any kind of body work so this was just a feeling out process. I know my first paint job isn't gonna be perfect (especially with how big of a project I took on for my first!)
If I choose to go further into body work I will be upgrading like you said.

its far from perfect but honestly I wouldn't be too upset with how the paint looks now after taking your advice and spraying closer....it feels smooth, it shines and looks good from 4ft away... and for a burned up 75 Nova painted in a garage with 120v equipment...i think thats OK hahah.

I just sanded and resprayed the deck lid this morning...came out similar to the hood...maybe A LITTLE smoother...however I'm having a reoccurring issue with specs and spots all over.

idk if they are dust particles or fisheyes... they don't really show in pics....i tried to get a good shot. any thoughts?

image hosting services

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Small compressors are a much bigger problem than some would like to admit.
The continuous running will produce somewhat of a pulsing effect if the tank empties too quickly. Also, the air heats up and more moisture is produced.

Personally, I tried the lower end guns for the all the same reasons most beginners do but then had a chance to spray with a SATA 2000 (yeah that was a while ago) and what a difference! This prompted me to do a search for the guns the pros use and two came to the top of the list - SATA and IWATA. The Iwata LPH400 silver cap (1.4) uses less CFM and pressure so I purchased a used one to try.
This was 10 years ago and I still have and use the gun.
I also have a DeVilbiss Tekna Copper that sprays real nice but requires more CFM and Pressure than the Iwata.

The point being, if you are going to get serious about painting cars, two things will make your life a whole lot easier. A minimum 7 hp 80 gallon compressor and a quality spray gun or two, or three, or thirty. LOL

sorry i have to post lol

Ha, ha! I was actually thinking of you when I added the thirty on.

as with coronet, i started with low ends guns-devilbiss startingline set. they were devilbiss,they had to be goood!!!
welp, they were good, but it took a lot of work and frustration to get to the point i could lay down base good and clear- welp, i never was able to get no OP in clear.
then bought a copper tekna.
night and day difference.
started with a small compressor,too. amazing how many problems disappeared when i got a compressor designed for the work AND a quality gun.


as for whats goin on with the finish, blowin them up as much as i can without distorting some look like fisheyes.

now with that lid you can learn colorsanding and buffing techniques.

tomsteve wrote: . . . as for whats goin on with the finish, blowin them up as much as i can without distorting some look like fisheyes.

I was thinking the same thing. What type of filtration system are you using?
I sprayed a truck once many, many years ago that turned out similar. Turned out the compressor was too small and running constantly, this caused it to spit oil into the air lines and I didn't have a proper filtration system to catch it. When I took the gun apart to clean it the oil residue was obvious.

You should be able to put a white cloth over the end of your air hose and blow air through it without any moisture, particles or discoloration showing on the cloth.

Also, read up on the Cut and Buff process. You will need to sand that panel flat with no shiny spots or waves to get a really nice finish.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:

tomsteve wrote: . . . as for whats goin on with the finish, blowin them up as much as i can without distorting some look like fisheyes.

I was thinking the same thing. What type of filtration system are you using?
I sprayed a truck once many, many years ago that turned out similar. Turned out the compressor was too small and running constantly, this caused it to spit oil into the air lines and I didn't have a proper filtration system to catch it. When I took the gun apart to clean it the oil residue was obvious.

You should be able to put a white cloth over the end of your air hose and blow air through it without any moisture, particles or discoloration showing on the cloth.

if you dont mind me butting in but a mirror will work better for testing a contaminated air line

This is the gun that got me started. the mirror thing ,interesting !
Jay D.

thanks for all the advice and thoughts. Being able to ask people who have 'been there - done that' is priceless.

I am very aware my set up isn't ideal. I have chalked up a lot of things that went wrong to "a crappy compressor" haha Basically I'm just trying to get through it best I can to a decent finish. This isn't a show car by any means although I don't really like to "half-****" things.

I don't have a REAL filter... I have a desiccant snake off the compressor and a "last chance" in line filter on the bottom of the gun. Now that you mention it..im sure my air is trashed.. I will try the tests tomorrow...scared to see what I will see.

I am reading up on the cut and buff process but it seems like everyone tries to sway you from doing it to single stage... I'm goin out today get the supplies I will need (probably pick up a REAL filter aswell.)
I am also using a 50ft house..the tech sheet on my gun says use no more than 20ft. Big deal?

as Coronet mentioned my compressor runs non stop heating the air up. is it plausible to paint the car in sections (without taking it apart) ?
for example:
let the compressor fill - spray a fender
let the compressor fill - cool down - 2nd coat fender
let the compressor fill - cool down - door
let the compressor fill - cool down - 2nd coat door
let the compressor fill - cool down - quarter panel

will probably take me all day but if it will get me better results with what I have...