Just started spraying color on a 1975 nova after massive amounts of body work.
(it was in a garage fire, the firemen stomped all over it trying to put the ceilings out.)

This thing was jacked. I took it as a learning experience as ive never done bodywork before. I am very very pleased with all the body ive completed.

decided to go with Eastwood Single Stage (hugger orange) sprayed with the Eastwood concourse hvlp gun.

sprayed the deck lid and hood only (to see if it was gonna look like garbage)

I am not happy with how it came out.. I'm not sure if the look I achieved is "normal" (I assume not) or what I did wrong. I'm sure many of you will be able to pin point my mistakes quickly. (see pics)
They came out quite textured and kinda hazey... a bug flew onto the deck lid and after i pulled it out, in a bit of panic i tried to bury the tracks in paint spraying directly to that spot a time or 2. As it turns out, that spot came out the smoothest out of the whole panel.

Thanks in advance.

What tip size?
What temperature reducer?
Compressor CFM output?
How close to the panel were you holding the gun?
What settings for fluid and fan controls?

-I used a 1.3 tip (1.7 was the next smallest I had)
-Medium 70-80 degrees activator (it was 76 when I sprayed)
-Compressor is a 5.5hp 25gal craftsman
8.6cfm @40psi
6.4cfm @90psi
I sprayed at 30psi
-Held the gun between 8-10inches away
-All gun settings wide open (fluid, air and fan) I had a great pattern when I sprayed on the test paper.

I'm hoping it was just operator error and not equipment/chemical malfunction.
Can someone give me a run down on how Single Stage should be laid down so I can compare it to how I did it?

I plan to respray after I get some advice and get my technique dialed in before tackling the rest of the car.

I think I figured out my problem...
like your question said... "which reducer?" - NONE!

the customer reviews and description on the paint I used all state "didn't need a reducer" or "reducer optional"
so I didn't get a reducer with the paint.

I assume that is a huge contributor to my issue?


gotta love trial and error learning lolol

8-10" is probably too far away from the panel. Check your gun's tech sheet if it has one.
Single stage must be sprayed in wet coats so the product flows out (much like clear coat.)

I would move the gun in closer like around 6" away and make sure you have at least a 50% overlap when spraying. You travel speed should be around 1 foot per second. Practice over a yard stick to get a feel for that spraying speed.

Using a slow (high temperature) activator and reducer will give the paint more time to lay down.

For a beginner I would be sure to put at least 3 coats of paint on. This will allow you to cut and buff a solid color single stage paint and remove any remaining orange peel and imperfections.

I appreciate your thoughts,

I ordered the eastwood reducer but will take a few days to arrive.
in the meantime I will respray the hood holding the gun closer to the panel and possibly moving a little slower. Then compare it to the deck lid for improvements.

when I go to respray - should I scuff the "new" paint I laid down the other day with 320 or something? or can I just clean/tack and repsray?

I wouldn't get in a hurry, wait for the reducer. your going to want to sand the previous finish, any texture, O/P, BUGS or what ever will show up in the new finish. its got to be smooth the end up smooth.
Jay D.

woops, I was in the garage workin' and didn't get to read your reply.

I sanded the hood so all the original orange peel/texture/bugs were gone.
resprayed in the last hour moving slower and holding the gun 6" from the panel.

I can already tell its WAY better... not like glass but a world of difference from the first spray.
put 3 coats on like advised so I can color sand/buff.
gonna eat dinner and go back out to see if its manageable or if ima have to respray with reducer when it gets here (hopefully not LOL)

will post an update pic in a bit.
&So far NO BUGS!

respray: 6in away
still not perfect but a whole lot better.
feels and looks completely different...
the haze is 100% gone...but when you get right on top of it you can still see some texture. (see pic)

in the front I got extra close and went a bit slower and that came out like glass.. so I think tomorrow I will try the deck lid again and see if I cant get it even smoother.. still not sure if I NEED the reducer or if it is my technique.

something you might want to look at:
if you have a regulator at the gun, see what the pressure is at the compressor as youre spraying. seems like a 25 gallon tank would run out of air to keep the pressure up at the gun.

dont know if i read the brand of gun ya have? that could be a cause for texture,too.

technique is important- distance from surface, gun travel speed, overlap % , keeping fan 90 degrees from surface all have to come together. gun setup is important,too.
as is how good the gun is atomizing. plus air pressure at the gun.