Aluminum Panel Repair Suggestions Please ?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 5:03 pm
I have been searching previous posts and came across a few discussions on using Rave Ultra for repairs . I will be doing my 1969 MGB for a fifty year anniversary next August ( she has been in the garage asleep since 1973 , awaiting my attention . I had stripped all of the chrome and threw a heavy coat of Tremclad applied to the exterior panels and the inner and underside were oiled before storage , but not in a climate controlled atmosphere .
My bonnet is aluminum ; I need to repair a few small blemishes and do not want any bondo on my car . Previous repairs were done with lead for a minor dent on the leading edge of the hood . No other repairs were ever done ; unless the factory or distributor were at fault that I am unaware of back in 1968 - 69 during shipping from UK to Canada .
There use to be a liquid Devcon in a tube that was available but I have not been able to source it ?
Any suggestions for a quality finish before a full repaint .
This was my 1st car so I have a BIG sentimental bond with her . :D
Thanks,
Al
Attachments
IMG_1577.JPG
Door spot welds showing under paint and surface is not smooth.
IMG_1580.JPG
Attached a photo of imperfection on surface of hood ; could have been some glue that reacted with the aluminum ( a card board box sitting on the hood ? ) .
Last edited by vision8 on Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:38 pm
Could you post some pictures of the car and the damge needing repair. there is nothing wrong with body filler used properly, its been tried and proven for years.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:52 pm
Badsix is right, today's body fillers are light years ahead of the old "Bondo".
There are a few super light weight fillers, one of which is (I think) is called
'Lite-Weight' filler that's used on aircraft aluminum. Aircraft Spruce is a supplier.

Rage Gold lightweight is also a very good filler. You cannot metal work
aluminum, so lightweight filler is the best solution, other than a replacement
bonnet or welding in replacement sections.
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 11:01 am
NightTrain

Who says you cant Metal work Aluminum ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9moYO-WWhaQ
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 11:13 am
Doright, the o/p of this post says that there was a previous repair done with lead is that correct? I didn't think lead would stick to aluminum. I do have some rod that you can weld aluminum with using a map gas torch. I've been around MG's a little and don't remember them having aluminum body parts.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:54 pm
Doright, I had trouble viewing the video; was it showing heat
being used to work it?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 10:12 pm
its heated to a certain temp to anneal it that makes it soft and workable. good video you'll want to see it.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 9:19 am
Nighttrain
No I was just yanking your chain about Aluminum not being able to metal work it.
you are correct about OP saying panel had been Leaded, that would be a cool trick I would like to see that in action on Aluminum. I have never seen of or heard of anyone leading Aluminum before.

2024 Aluminum melts at roughly 1200 F And pure lead melts at about 600 F.
A little less for 30/70 tin/lead solder which I am Guessing would be used? that's what's used on Steel any way I am also guessing at its melting point 400 ish? plus

I Have Soldered a Lot of copper Pipe and Wire in my day But still never played with Body Lead on Steel I plan to some day soon but not today I am fairly confident in my skills That I will I will be able to pull it off at least on my Roof lines on steel, BUT to do that Dance on Aluminum? I am Gonna have to pass on that one.

To the OP
If that is an Aluminum Hood ? It could be a rare piece? I too have never seen Aluminum panels on an MG before not saying they don't exist. But if it was me I would take a 90 hi speed with a 36-40 grit 2" sanding disk and spot sand the corrosion off the surface then take a drill or a Hi speed file and clean up hole edges and Have the holes welded up and then sand them back down smooth with the rest of the panel.

Don't be afraid of today's body fillers they really are light years ahead of Yesterdays Bondo which mostly got a bad rap from being used improperly.

Devcon, Allmetal, and other metal fillers out there on the market there are many on the market, Will they work? Yes if properly Prepped and applied sure they will work, Every thing has a purpose and a right way and a wrong way to use it, No fillers are really designed to fill holes but they will, will it crack and fall out ? Maybe, Probably, but then again maybe not? how long will it last? I dunno, Is it the right way to do it? no.
The thing to remember with Metal fillers is they don't like to flex or expand and if its not flexing its gonna crack or dis-bond from the panel when the panel does flex. Auto body panels are made thin to be light and to flex a little, They flex when driving around and they flex when you lean up against them Its better to use a good Hi quality Plastic filler and use it properly never more than an 1/8 inch thick, Plastic fillers are designed to flex with the panel when used properly.

Another thing to think about with fillers is as Heat from the Sun heats up a Panel different materials expand and contract at different rates once a panel is painted with dissimilar materials under the paint these can show through and ruin a other wise stellar paint job.
Dennis B.
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