Correcting small faults in metallic paint

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:09 pm
This is my first time spraying metallic single stage, and I've tried as hard as I can to avoid the dreaded striping problem. So far I managed to do so, except for a 2x2 inch section of my quarter panel.

I didn't even notice it until I put clear on the next day, and now I can really see it.

I'd *like* to sand the area with 400 grit, then use an airbrush to lay down fresh metallic paint, let it dry and use the airbrush again to blend in the clear. But I'm not sure if that's going to work, how best to mask the area, how it would affect wetsanding (I have to wetsand, far too much orange peel not to) or if there's anything I can do besides.



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:53 pm
Why in the world did you use S/S and then clear it, you could have use B/C and probably not had any problems, or at worst been able to repair it easy. the S/S is going to be a problem. I think the best options would be to use your same gun and try and spot it in, its going to take some blending talent. then reclear the complete panel the other option would be to respray the complete panel and reclear. the air brush is probably not going to spray the metallic to match the other gun. if your color is a gold, silver, or similar good luck. Just reread your post if the op is bad and your going to sand all of it just shoot that panel again probably won't match adjacent panels but not much more you can do. i'm not trying to put you down but trying to spot in in the middle of a panel with S/S metallic is a challenge, you might get it good let us know how it comes out.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 1:31 am
Thanks for the advice. I went with SS instead of BC because I wasn't sure that I would need to clear coat it at the time of purchase.

I'm doing it in the end as it happens because of orange peel and I want to lay down extra material so I can wet sand smooth as possible. I'm using a 25 gal compressor with only 6 cfm/90psi, and an Eastwood Concours hvlp gun, spraying one panel at a time so the compressor doesn't work too hard. Even still I have more orange peel in parts than a citrus grove, probably because of my suboptimal setup. Not much I can do there, but at least I know how to wetsand and have a good buffer.

I'm spraying metallic blue. I'd love to get away with just using the airbrush for this section, lay down some metallic then some clear, and let the wetsanding process 'take care of it', but if that's not possible then that's how it is.



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:28 am
Practice first. Spray a scrap piece of something with the SS and clear, just like you did on the car. Wait a day or two then sand a spot and see if you can get a good blend. You will need to clear the whole panel to avoid a halo.

I've had great success doing this. Other have said I'm just lucky.



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:27 am
yep, you may get lucky. but the problem here is the air brush and trying to spot it in. the metallic is not going to lay out like the first coat did thus being a different shade sometimes its not to noticeable, most of the time it is.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:00 pm
badsix wrote:yep, you may get lucky. but the problem here is the air brush and trying to spot it in. the metallic is not going to lay out like the first coat did thus being a different shade sometimes its not to noticeable, most of the time it is.
Jay D.


I agree.
Personally I would sand the entire panel, shoot some inter-coat clear over the repair area and extend beyond enough so I can see the trouble spot and color I am trying to match.
Spray color using exact same settings as when spraying the car. Light coat over just the trouble spot and then a little further on the next coat, etc. until the repair looks right.
Clear the entire panel to complete.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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