Paint Matching

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:13 pm
I just replaced the rockers and cab corners on my Storm Gray 1999 Chevy Silverado.
I picked us some PPG Omni base and CC and Omni Epoxy primer from a small local shop. The paint appears darker than the factory finish. I know my application technique isn't perfect, but I would have thought that it would have matched a bit better. As a relative novice to painting, how much can I mess up to affect the color that much? Was it my choice of cheap product? The small shop uses some type of gram scale when adding the tint, do you suppose they messed up? I'm just let down with the end results.

When trying to match paint on an 18 year old vehicle, should I have tried to match colors rather than using the paint codes? Other than the rusty bottom, the rest of the finish is still quite nice.

I've painted a few things in the past with good results, but have never tried to blend/match the current paint.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 2:02 pm
Please post some pictures so we are not guessing.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 2:54 pm
Most all paints have "alternates" within a paint code.
And most have samples for that code to pick from
to get a good match.
I take them out in the sunshine to compare before choosing.
To just pick the standard one is seldom the best one,
especially on an older car.
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:11 pm
Blending is required if you want a match, as well as quality basecoat, or it is so close that a truck bed is indistinguishable from a cab corner. Omni does not offer the best match; the tints are limited. You need to look at a DBC variant deck, pick out what is closest and shoot a test card. I've had codes with 17 variants. Glad my collision days are over; now just have to deal with restoration when an owner never documents a paint code.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:16 pm
Thanks for the replies so far, I didn't know there were different variances on paint codes, so I'll chalk that up to lesson learned. If this were a newer vehicle, I would have handed it off to the pros.

To be honest, I have no intentions of fixing the poorly matched paint. It is just the very bottoms below the chrome panels below the trim line, and just the back corner of the cab, and fairly low as well. Good enough for my old truck with 200,000+ miles. Just hated looking at all that rust.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 9:31 pm
We use the paint codes as reference points, then do the tinting from there. Paint usually wont match unless its a factory pack paint and it just rolled off the lot. For cars/trucks that have seen some sun, i'd recommend taking off like the gas lid and taking it to get color matched at the paint store. Dont use any plastic items for reference, color has a different shade usually on plastic vs metal surfaces. We've all been there lol, live and learn. Good luck =)



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:49 pm
Thank you all for the excellent advice. Painting is something I'm wanting to get in to more, so I jump at any chance to do some DIY projects.

Again, I appreciate the replies, and today I know more than yesterday. Can't beat that!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 10:19 pm
Lots of good advice here, let me give my .02

Get you something to spray on to do a spray out.

Mix your paint and put it in your gun
Spray it just like you would on the vehicle letting it flash and following all rules until you get good coverage
Let it flash good (weather dependant), about 30 minutes or so
Tape off the top section, just put a single piece of tape all the way across the panel
Bump your air pressure up 5lbs at the gun. Hold your gun back 12" and fog on a wet coat. Once you get coverage let it flash and take the tape off and see if you have a lighter color where you fogged it on. Check that against your truck and see if you are closer or blendable.

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