hey all

I am slowly restoring my car and have some rust in the fender well thst I need to sort out.

I was going to grind/wheel out all the rust and then treat the rust with something like maybe a phosphoric acid dip,

can I then shoot epoxy provided I wash and wipe down the phosphoric acid before it dries.

thanks for any ideas.

depends on how bad the rust is. I've had good results with phosphoric acid if used properly. do you have any good pictures?
Jay D.

Pictures would help.

Media blasting is the best way IMHO although I have used Phosphoric Acid in certain cases.
A grinder will take away too much metal and a wire wheel really doesn't get rid of the rust completely.

If you choose the phosphoric acid route it must be neutralized prior to top coating. Yes, even though the label will say it is ready to paint over - IT IS NOT!

:goodpost ^^^: yes this is one time you don't want to do what the label says .
Jay D.

Started on my '30 Ford truck last weekend and was wondering the same. In my research I found that Por 15 and Ospho are popular. Most paint lines have a rust converter/metal conditioner.

COOL, I'm at about the same stage on my 31 Chevy pickup. what are your plans? I'm just building a driver its going to have a GMC 270 , T-5 5spd. Toyota pickup rear and a disc front brake kit on the front. just a basic straight body with semi gloss black and red wheels just a very basic daily driver.
Jay D.

pretty sweet ride, there. i wanted to comment on this because ive only had one experience with POR 15 and that was a friend that did the underside of a 95 f150 he rebuilt. the undercarriage was sand blasted and then POR 15. it started cracking,peeling,and flaking about 2 years later.
ive read quite a few raving reviews of POR15, but shortly after applying. i seem to read quite often a year or so down the road people arent as happy about it
imo, its great for a tank, but something like 30 ford truck, id go with an epoxy primer. too nice of a truck.

sportbikepainter wrote: In my research I found that Por 15 and Ospho are popular.

IMG_20171104_134640.jpg

I've been in this business for decades and would not use POR on a customer's car if it was free. I don't know a quality minded, well informed restoration shop that would use it. Ospho is just phosphoric acid, so is Klean Strip Prep and Etch. P.A. is the key ingredient in Naval Jelly. If you do not completely neutralize P.A., the primer will fail.

So, the million dollar question.... How do you nutralize the acid to ensure good adhesion?

I usually scrub with soap and water using a brush or scratch pad then dry immediately.
before I prime I will sand with 80 grit or what ever my primer calls for, blow the dust off and wipe with wax and grease remover then prime. I've been doing it this way for years and no problems.
Jay D.