1993 F350 repaint questions

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:00 pm
So I got some quotes for a repaint on my 93 F350, they average 5-6k way too much for a second driver vehicle. Mostly because shops say they dont need to do this sort of job. It's all good. So I am going to tackle this with least amount of "hold ups" I can come across. So here are the questions:

I know the standard door handle pads and other things I can see needing to be replaced. I will have to remove the bed, I will purchase a bed bolt hardware kit are there pads or gaskets that go between the bed and the frame?

What is a good frame paint while I have the bed off I will paint at least the back half of the frame?

I am repainting it white, what is a decent sealer paint once I have the body prepped that preferably I can get in white?

I have fender extensions (factory) these are very rigid, do I need to use a flex agent?

Since I am paint the orginal color jambs etc are decent enough not to paint do I need to worry about over spray in those areas? At least the ones that are not going to be seen as much?

Going with single stage trying to do this with the least amount of factors involved plus cost, I don't need show car or even 20+ year quality just something that is going to protect the truck would shopline PPG or any insight of a low cost quality SS paint that is decent to work with? I so have a PPG dealer local.

I am guessing 1 gallon of sealer and 2 gallons of paint it is a crew cab. I really want to keep this as low budget as possible.

Any tips or experience from others that have done these, would be greatly appreciated.



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:33 am
r91488 wrote:So I got some quotes for a repaint on my 93 F350, they average 5-6k way too much for a second driver vehicle. Mostly because shops say they dont need to do this sort of job. It's all good. So I am going to tackle this with least amount of "hold ups" I can come across. So here are the questions:

I know the standard door handle pads and other things I can see needing to be replaced. I will have to remove the bed, I will purchase a bed bolt hardware kit are there pads or gaskets that go between the bed and the frame?
YES PROBABLY RUBBER PADS

What is a good frame paint while I have the bed off I will paint at least the back half of the frame?
CHECK OUT EASTWOOD FOR FRAME PAINT OR USE SOME SPI EPOXY OR OTHER.

I am repainting it white, what is a decent sealer paint once I have the body prepped that preferably I can get in white?
CHECK WITH YOUR PPG JOBBER I WOULD GET LIGHT GRAY

I have fender extensions (factory) these are very rigid, do I need to use a flex agent?
NO

Since I am paint the orginal color jambs etc are decent enough not to paint do I need to worry about over spray in those areas? At least the ones that are not going to be seen as much?
ITS UP TO YOU. USUALLY YOU CAN MASK THEM AND GET GOOD RESULTS. IF YOU DON'T MASK SOMETIMES SPRAY WILL GET ON THE RUBBER SEAL, LOOKS BAD!

Going with single stage trying to do this with the least amount of factors involved plus cost, I don't need show car or even 20+ year quality just something that is going to protect the truck would shopline PPG or any insight of a low cost quality SS paint that is decent to work with? I so have a PPG dealer local. TALK TO YOUR PPG JOBBER AND ASK ABOUT S/S URATHANE.

I am guessing 1 gallon of sealer and 2 gallons of paint it is a crew cab. I really want to keep this as low budget as possible.
THAT BE CLOSE

Any tips or experience from others that have done these, would be greatly appreciated.

Pull the box and paint the box separate then do the cab something that big I would do the roof then mask it off then do the rest.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:14 am
Thanks Badsix that is a good point I am 6'2" and will still need a ladder, too much can go on with all of that. I will map out the plan based on that. I'm sure I will be having more questions in the near future.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:38 am
I would also point out that there is a ton of good information in the Info Center (link at top left of this page) and in the Sticky Posts at the top of each Forum.

Do a Search for every question you have and it will pull up multiple posts for you to read.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:03 am
please start with a thorough washing with something like dawn dish soap- engine bay included. hit the wheel wells good. dirt has a tendency to stay hidden until the trigger on the gun is pulled. think like dirt:"if i was dirt on this truck and wanted to really screw this paint job up, where would i hide?
might be wise to clay bar the truck after that,too. a 24 year old truck may have surface crud washing wont remove.
then wash again after claying.

when it comes time to paint, spend some time to map out how youre going to spray. ya want to keep a wet edge and that can be difficult on a truck that big. being 6'2" thats going to help on the roof!
i did a club cab 96 silverado and started on the roof, then started at the right rear tailgate and worked down the side, across the hood, then down left side- spraying the A posts when i got to them( any over spray/dry spray would be up on the roof and less noticable, but i didnt get any).
but if the bed was off, it will make it easier- breaking it up into two seperate paint jobs kind of.
theres some write ups and videos on backtaping door jambs. id suggest reading a few articles and watching a few videos to get an undertanding of how and why, then choose a method. theres also some foam round stuff designed for the job, but i havent ever used it. all that taping is somewhat like washing- gotta think like paint:'if i was paint and going on this truck, where are all the nooks and crannies i would get into?
i did a 96 firebird and didnt seal/tape off the hood good enough and had overspray in the engine bay. bummer.
so ya havent painted before,which i hope ya got a decent compressor, filter on the compressor, and pick up some decent guns.
id suggest seein iffen your jobber has some mismatched single stage, finding a hood at a bone yard, and using it for practice.

i also suggest SPI epoxy for the frame. whatever ya use, stay away from frame paints that turn rockhard. the frame, and quite a bit on the undercarriage, flexes and moves and rock hard finishes WILL chip,crack, and flake.

2 gallons should be good. my thought is, with this being youre first paint job, you might really like the new paint on there but have some orange peel,overspray, and/or runs which you may decide ya want to sand and buff it all up purdy. IF that turns out to be the sase, if 2 gallons going to be enough to get enough coats for that?

another choice for paint, and since ya say,"plus cost, I don't need show car or even 20+ year quality just something that is going to protect the truck ..."
would be to look at TCP globals restoration shop line
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Pai ... tion-Shop/
ive sprayed the urethane base a couple times and the single stage once-marine blue- and was happy with coverage and results.

one more suggestion:
we like pictures of progress! :)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:45 am
Two gallons is also a variable depending on the mixing ratio of the paint.
If the paint mixes 1:1 you should have enough for a vehicle that size. If you are buying something that mixes 2:1 or 4:1, I doubt you will have enough.
Figure 3 coats minimum to get coverage depending on the color.
Spraying single stage is different than painting basecoat so be prepared for a bit of practice with your gun set up and spraying technique if you don't want to be sanding orange peel.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 3:40 pm
Thanks for the replies, yes my plans are to have at least 2 sprayable gallons. I have sprayed several vehicles in primer and a couple BC/CC but have very little experience with SS. So besides cost factor also "forgiving" paint.

Any recommendations of sealer paint (or consider spraying that thinned down coat of primer) there will be areas I do not need to use high build on (actually most of the truck) and frame paint. I really don't want to paint the frame with POR-15 unless it is HIGHLY recommended, it does have typical surface rust and just thought while I'm there tackle at least the back half of the frame.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:22 pm
I am not a fan of POR-15 as it gets brittle and cracks allowing moisture to get in.
I use SPI Black Epoxy Primer on frame and undercarriage parts. It has UV inhibitors in it and will last a long time if not exposed to direct sunlight.
2 to 3 coats and at full cure it will be tough to scratch it and yet still flexible enough not to crack.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:24 pm
you can just pressure wash the frame then shoot it with some epoxy depending on how rusty it is. if its to rusty for that you'll need to get the blaster out. for your color check with your PPG jobber and try and get a s/s urethane. I use Nasons and it sprays real good. for your sealer when you get your color ask them about sealer, you should be able to get some that you can shoot right out of the can s/s if you want to call it that. I would defiantly shoot the box first or you might try just the tail gate so you can get the feel of the paint, then do the box. I would also do the roof section before the cab part. if your not in a hurry it so much easier that way especially for a beginner
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:52 am
you could go old school on the frame and spray used motor oil every 6 months. :neutral:

or what coronet mentioned- SPI epoxy. its awesome stuff . you can get 2 sprayable gallons for about $200 or a half gallon( it mixes 1:1) for about $80. quite a few people also use it in place of high build primer. also use it as a sealer.

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