How many layers are too many?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 8:04 pm
badsix wrote:but you have talked about Single Stage and then Base Coat to me they are different, or usually the way we talk here. if I went to my jobber and asked for Single Stage Base coat i'm sure I would get a wide eyed reaction. if its truly a S/S, then as mentioned before a drop coat properly applied should eliminate the problem.
Jay D.


Sorry if I was unclear, I used single stage metallic. My understanding is that it's easier to tiger stripe SS than BC/CC, but I'm not sure why precisely, could someone elaborate? Curious to know.



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 8:37 pm
Your right it is easier to tiger stripe S/S. base coat is a different formula altogether its made to go on even with reasonable spraying techniques. there's just a lot of things that can cause the problem. I wish I could be their we could sort this out.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 6:23 am
larryq wrote:My understanding is that it's easier to tiger stripe SS than BC/CC, but I'm not sure why precisely, could someone elaborate? Curious to know.


So am I. Jay? Why?

That said, a little OT comment. By SS I understand you mean an activated urethane topcoat. We call that 2K. I came into this industry late, not quite 20 years ago and I have NEVER used or even seen a formula for a metallic 2K. Started off with PPG using Cobra and the original 2K and then moved to Dupont/Axalta. Never even seen a car painted this way - just something that's not done here. Yet I use acrylic lacquer quite often, something that's even older technology, but necessary on period correct restorations or repairs. I use acrylic, solids and metallics/pearls, as a base coat almost daily. Love it. Interestingly, I travel a bit through Asia and acrylics are the paint of choice there almost everywhere you go.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 1:05 pm
here in the US we don't use acrylics or lacquers as you call them much mostly base clear coats. 50 years ago we had lacquer and synthetic enamels the enamels were very slow drying and not very durable. you can now get an activator for it that cuts the dry time considerably. step up a few years and we had acrylic enamels they had an activator but some could be used without. then a few years later we had base coat and urethane clears and colors, the colors were just about like A/E.
on the tiger striping its a problem with enamels and urethanes mainly because you have to put the paint on wet. so if your gun or spray technique is off then the stripes start to show. its from one area of the spray being weter than the rest. if your gun is not perpendicular to the surface its going to be heavier on the closer edge. the heavier edge being weter will let the metallic settle at a different rate causing a darker stripe. the cure for this is a drop coat as the last wet coat flashes. base coats should never have a problem with stripes unless your applying it wrong, to wet. though some cheep base coats are more prone to striping. I just used some Limco Supreme Plus base coat, it sprayed ok and covered well but nothing like using Chroma Base. now the Chroma Base was 90.00 for a pint the Limco Supreme was 18.00. i'm not sure I would feel comfortable doing a blend with the Limco, but maybe a little more time would help? I know I can do a perfect blend with the Chroma Base, so if I do a blend I go the extra and get the Chroma Base.
I hope this helps a little
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:13 pm
Thanks Jay.

Depending on which base coat I'm using the technique is a little different but, as an example, for Centari 6000 they specify one light coat and then one full, wet coat. Depending on colour and location I'll then do a drop coat over that, just to make the flake sit up a bit, but I don't have a problem with striping, even though my usual base coat gun doesn't have a really wide fan. I guess the 6000 binder holds the flake up a bit better than what's used in the SS.

I can see where you're coming from, though. Yesterday I did a fully enclosed trailer, white activated enamel over white epoxy. Near impossible to see where I was going/had been and I reckon if that had been metallic it would have stripes all over it, especially the roof. Standing 5' up on a ladder outside the mudguards and trying to reach out 4' and get it down even without tilting the gun. Hah!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 1:21 am
NFT5 wrote:Thanks Jay.

Near impossible to see where I was going/had been and I reckon if that had been metallic it would have stripes all over it, especially the roof. Standing 5' up on a ladder outside the mudguards and trying to reach out 4' and get it down even without tilting the gun. Hah!


Your fear was my reality when painting my car's roof; I was felt like I was flying blind when stretching across the center. It took me three separate attempts to get it right. No more single stage for me when spraying metallics, bc / cc from here on out.
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