When you sand the urethane with 400 grit, you are creating fine groves for the base coat to grab on to (mechanical adhesion) and if you are within the recoat window (chemical adhesion) all the better. Either way you are good. If you are past the recoat window the mechanical adhesion is needed and still strong enough. The epoxy adhesion is even better but not necessary.

For the hail damage, bumping them out is usually best. However, if it is a big deal to do, then you could apply some filler like Evercoat Rage as long as not more than a 1/4 inch thick. Then follow with the primers, followed by base and clear.

And again, read the tech sheets to learn what the manufacturer recommends for surface preparation prior to applying their products.

Also, you might like watching Kevin Tetz's DVD called "Body Shop Basics". It covers the type of repairs you are doing and is not as dry as reading about it. It was the best $20 I've spent on learning material.

you might wanna consult this page when looking at different paints and what fluid tip to use and air pressure to use.

https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/s ... ature.aspx

Lenny B wrote:When you sand the urethane with 400 grit, you are creating fine groves for the base coat to grab on to (mechanical adhesion) and if you are within the recoat window (chemical adhesion) all the better. Either way you are good. If you are past the recoat window the mechanical adhesion is needed and still strong enough. The epoxy adhesion is even better but not necessary.

For the hail damage, bumping them out is usually best. However, if it is a big deal to do, then you could apply some filler like Evercoat Rage as long as not more than a 1/4 inch thick. Then follow with the primers, followed by base and clear.

And again, read the tech sheets to learn what the manufacturer recommends for surface preparation prior to applying their products.

Also, you might like watching Kevin Tetz's DVD called "Body Shop Basics". It covers the type of repairs you are doing and is not as dry as reading about it. It was the best $20 I've spent on learning material.

I"m gonna order some overcoat rage. I see there are a lot to choose from ever coat gold. ever coat extra. I assume the regular ever coat is the one you use?

Doright wrote:you might wanna consult this page when looking at different paints and what fluid tip to use and air pressure to use.

https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/s ... ature.aspx

Thanks i found the FLG 4 on that website and i assume its close to the FLG 5. With that being said the gun needs 13 cfm to perform which is way past my compressor. Im leaning towards spraying the primer in my garage and blocking it. Then renting the booth for a day to shoot the bc/cc

I have an FL4 its a good gun I use it mostly for Primer but it could be used for color and clears very easily it sprays good. I didn't pay attention to what air cap they gave your FLG5 but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same as the FLG4, and the 5 just being water based paint compliant.

I use my 4 to spray lots of Black Epoxy it it lays out very nice.

Doright wrote:I have an FL4 its a good gun I use it mostly for Primer but it could be used for color and clears very easily it sprays good. I didn't pay attention to what air cap they gave your FLG5 but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same as the FLG4, and the 5 just being water based paint compliant.

I use my 4 to spray lots of Black Epoxy it it lays out very nice.

Early christmas gift to me. I'm getting a 60 gallon 3.7hp compressor.

I haven't bought the FLG 5 but i read that it was up there in reviews. I believe the Gunmans top 10. I don't have a ton of money to spend on a gun and this paint job could be the only one i do besides touch ups so I'm trying to keep the gun around 150-200 mark. Do you think its wise to purchase the FLG 5 or save up for a Iwata or SATA?

I am concerned your new compressor wont be big enough for what you want to do.
this first one has same specs you are talking about and I wouldn't even think of it in my shop!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-60-Gall ... or/3370356

This one is more in line of what you need and not much more expensive and worth the extra coin! every penny! If in any way you can wait and add to your funds before purchasing do so!
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-80-Gall ... or/3370338

This one is way too small for my needs but for a guy working out of small shop or his garage part time this would be what I would consider a bare minimum for painting and doing body work even then its still on small side!

Your air compressor is the heart of your shop and you need one that can do the job start to finish for years to come this is one of those things you just cant skimp on! Bigger is better in this case!

You don't have a gun now so wait purchase the bigger air compressor if you have to wait to save your money to Buy the right air compressor to start with! WAIT!
If you get the smaller one you'll just burn it up Sanding with a DA continuously trying to get the work done and then here comes more water AND Oil from a worn out compressor to add contamination to your system!

The Devillbiss guns are ok ya those others are the best thing since sliced bread sure But a good Painter guy can get same results with either one so really whats the difference?

I really like how all the new guys come here and wanna Paint and restore their cars finish with there dads 20-40 gal $200 air compressor and a Million dollar spray gun.

I swear guys will spend $600-$800 on a new Hi dollar Spray gun without a thought other than it will save them from sanding Orange peel, BUT wont spend a dime on a good compressor!
(a new painter is still gonna have Orange peel! just the way it is)
(A new painter is gonna redo every thing at least twice before he gets it right)
just the way it is! Even when you know what your doing **** happens!

The fact of the matter is NO spray gun is going to operate correctly without a good air compressor!

And we haven't even spoken about water traps or air filters yet!
A water trap system is a must.
A good air filter system is a must.
Fresh new air hoses are a must.
Hi flow air fittings are a must for a new gun to operate correctly.

You have to have a water trap to stop the water! any & every air compressor will make water! and you have to extract it from the air so you need to plan for it and how your gonna do it.
After your water trap you still need a good air filter and preferably one with an oil filter as well as an air drier. an air drier is a must in my opinion.
You also need clean new air hoses to avoid using an old nasty air hose which could have oil or other contaminants on the inside of the hoses from being used on some old nasty air compressor that leaked oil and water and was operated without a water trap and air & oil filters.

Just look into the problems with contaminants people have had over the years do a search.... search oil in paint, brown spots in paint, orange peel, paint lifting, bubbles in paint, water trapped in paint, Fish eyes, the list goes on and on.

This is not a cheap hobby! You are not gonna save money painting a car yourself! Your not gonna be able to sell your work till your really good at it and that takes more than a few cars to get good at it and collect all the tools required to start doing it, so don't think you'll do a buddy's car for a few bucks and recoup some money either, ya a lot of guys think that way but BEFORE preferably not after you screw the pooch with a $400-$1600 gallon of Base coat paint you just may wanna rethink that idea?
From start to finish materials for me to paint a car runs me $1500-$3000 just in materials alone! to paint one car B/C C/C system, It depends on Color and brand of paint used.

Air is the Heart of your shop! without a good air compressor your pi$$ing in the wind!