Can I use this without fear of compatibility problems? It'll have plenty of time to cure. http://www.speedokote.com/smr-260b-261- ... ler-black/
I'm prepping the car, my painter is as yet unknown. I imagine he'll prefer his own system of product. (I'd like to do the jambs, trunk and engine compartment.)

My plan is to strip the car with a DA (Choice of which I already screwed up, per my thread in the tool section.), spray it with epoxy primer (To avoid rusting because it'll be a while before sees paint.), do the body work and top with a primer/surfacer, block sanding w/ a guide coat.

I'm a newbie, for sure, but I'm also pretty thick headed and determined. Please see my post in the Break Room section where I explained my limited experience.

Looks like it should be good. I was going to suggest ********** for the epoxy but theirs is about 30.00 more. also check with Chris here and see what he has. just make sure you prep the metal properly, good sand scratch and clean. if the body work is going to set for some time I would cover any filler areas with the epoxy. i'm not sure what your primer surfacer is, but I would get a 2 part hi build primer. it works well for blocking rough body work and most can be used as a sealer. most 2 part paints that I know of are usually compatible, note I said usually. you should talk to who ever is going to spray the paint as most don't like to work over someone else's prep work. keep a list of what you do and what you use so you can tell the painter what's on the car and how it was put on this might ease the tension.
Jay D.

Thanks Jay.
I should've mentioned that I already bought this- before I did my homework about compatibility and everything else.
I do plan on buying from Chris. I have to get more of a plan together. First part was finding out if the T Rex will work.

I'm really looking forward to this project. Not much body damage, but some rust (very little) to fix. I already migged a couple patches on the doors. -Butt welded pieces made from a cardboard template.