Please Review My Priming Plan!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 3:55 am
Hello everyone! I am in the midst of gathering materials and preparing to paint my recently acquired 1976 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. I was hoping to get some feedback and any tips/recommendations on the plan (laid out below) for prepping my car for paint. I will not be using a rotisserie, but just one step below it. The body is mostly disassembled and I will be masking the other areas. (FYI, I am as novice as a novice can get. I have never even held, let alone sprayed, an air-powered spray gun. But I have done *some* bodywork (pre-paint).)

The current state of the paint, on most panels, is an aftermarket paint job which I will block out to create a surface for the paint. There are certain areas that are being taken down to bare metal (deep scratches/nicks/body damage). There are also areas (quarters, front fenders) that are brand new panels.

Without further ado, here is the plan:
1. remove stripes/decals/hardware
2. paint prep
-soap/water
-wax/grease remover
-Eastwood pre-painting prep
2. coarse grind whole car
-block sand (120/220/320)
3. Eastwood epoxy primer on necessary areas only (bare metal, etc)
-1.4-1.8mm tip using siphon-feed gun
-HF 32oz siphon feed
-5.3CFM @ 90 psi/6.2CFM @ 40psi (10 gal)
-2 coats where necessary
-wait 2 days, then sand (180/220)
4. bodywork
-bondo filler then sand (40/80/180)
-Eastwood contour glazing putty then sand (80/120/180)
5. featheredge
-featheredge, no interface pad, 1/4" of each layer showing
-220 on DA sander (Ryobi electric wired)
6. Eastwood 2k urethane primer-surfacer
-1.2-1.6mm tip using HF siphon-feed gun
-2-3 coats, 15 min (@70F) between coats
-not necessarily applied to whole car
-wait 24 hours before block sanding (180/220/320/400)
7. guide coat and sanding
-apply guide coat
-use DA sander with interface (220/320/500)
-use shape blocks for edges and difficult areas
-resolve any highs/lows
8. deliver to professional shop for base coat/clear coat

Thank you so much for any tips/recommendations you can give!

-Alex



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:20 pm
NO. 1 is ok
NO.2 if its a complete and an older vehicle I like to clean with wax and grease remover around hinges molding that won't be removed and any other items that could get something under them. then wash with soap and water and a small pressure washer. you'll be ok if you just wash good. I have a fish eye phobia I don't like them and the way I do things I very rarely get any.
NO. 2-B I don't know what you mean by coarse grind. but if you have several new panels and the rest has an unknown paint job on it I would take the outside down to bare metal.it sounds like a lot of hard work but it will make it easier on through the job.
NO. 3 you might be lacking in the air compressor dept.
see what you think about it this far and then call back, things will change depending on how you go about it.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:25 pm
Jay,

Thank you for your reply.

Image

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Here are some photos of the project. As you can see, the original primer and layer of original olive-green has been covered with 1 layer primer and a metallic brown. The only parts which would need to be stripped (aka have been resprayed) are the outer hardtop, hood, and doors. The quarters and front fenders are fresh metal, and the interior/door jambs/engine compartment was never resprayed. So I think stripping those parts is pretty reasonable.

I am probably worried most about the air compressor. The compressor is rated for 4.8cfm at 50psi, while the gun average requirement is 4cfm at 50psi. So technically it will keep up but with only 11 gallons I am foreseeing a lot of wait time for the compressor to keep up. But I am working panel-by-panel, so perhaps the spraying sessions will be somewhat short and it will not be an issue.

The alternative is to using this compressor setup is to rent a local spray booth. I got a quote for $500 which includes two 2-hour sessions of spraying and 5 days of heated workspace (for curing and sanding between coats). That spray booth includes multiple gravity-feed HVLPs with a compressor big enough for constant-spray.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:36 pm
It's just the same old problem....that tiny compressor isn't even living up to it's own specs. and "real" gun cfm consumption is usually about 70 to 100% more than what is stated. A 10 gallon reserve is literally seconds of supply so that compressor is woefully under powered. Might be worth taking that money you were going to spend on a booth and start looking on craigslist, offer up, ebay, etc. for a decent compressor. If you are going to be panel shooting mostly a 60 gallon 4 to 5 h.p. unit would be enough.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:33 pm
:goodpost: I'm with Darrel, I hate to see you rent the booth and be under a specified time line were you have to get it done or out the door you go. it looks like you have a shop to work in so take that money you were going to spend on the booth and look for a compressor. ultimately a 2 stage 5 hp or so. then its yours for ever unless you could sell it when your done and get your money back or most of it.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:38 pm
Taking a prepped vehicle to be painted is probably not going to come with a warranty. Just something to keep in mind. They can't guarantee the foundation of the job, so they probably won't guarantee the paintwork. Not saying anything against you AT ALL, your steps seem good.



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:37 pm
Thank you all for the replies. I always assumed the underpowered compressor (even though on paper it meets specs) would be a problem! I have been looking into buying a used 13.4 cfm @ 40psi 7hp (peak) air compressor and installing a 230V outlet to go with it for $350. I have also been looking at compressor rentals. I could rent one for $120/week which outputs 13.9 cfm @ 90psi. My concern is that it is only 8 gallon, however it does have a gas engine so perhaps it could keep up better? What are your thoughts about these options? As always, thank you!

-Alex

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:53 pm
ajobrien wrote:...I have been looking into buying a used 13.4 cfm @ 40psi 7hp (peak) air compressor and installing a 230V outlet to go with it for $350. I have also been looking at compressor rentals. I could rent one for $120/week which outputs 13.9 cfm @ 90psi. My concern is that it is only 8 gallon, however it does have a gas engine so perhaps it could keep up better? What are your thoughts about these options?...


Don't do the gas engine style, they are for contractors, I know as that is what I started my 65 Caddy build with, as I have a couple of them (compressors, not Caddys). I ran a hose from the compressor located in my "Pig Barn" shop which is next to my garage. What a PITA.

I traded a smaller 110v compressor for a cheapy 60 gallon 220v unit with a buddy of mine. Installed it outside in a covered little shed and ran hard lines (BTW don't use PVC!)

Love it! I use two different style of fittings, one set for my air tools and the Legacy High Flow fitting for my spray guns which go through the extra filtering.

At $120/week you could save up for a new compressor pretty fast.

I'd keep looking at CL, Backpage etc for a good compressor. Wiring in a new 220v circuit is actually pretty easy.
Last edited by OldFatBald on Sun Dec 10, 2017 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 8:34 pm
:goodpost: keep looking.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:46 pm
I think I have narrowed down my search to the following 2 items:

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/d ... 70183.html

https://us.letgo.com/en/i/air-compresso ... f411ef1ab9

Any experience with Craftsman or MagnaForce? Reliable and good for painting? I could also go new (even though the Husky has less hp):

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-60-Ga ... /205389936

I really do appreciate all of you helping a novice get trained in the art of painting :goodjob:
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