PPG Omni questions

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 5:52 pm
A newbie to car restoration. I just discovered this site today and did hours of reading getting imformed as much as possible. 95 white Buick Regal, with paint delaminating severely. I would like to keep it on the road for another 4 years.

This is what my initial plans were and how my mindset has changed since the hours of reading. I had planned on stripping my entire car's paint but not through the underneath primer. I found this arosol stripper that does not penetrate the primer and the paint blisters off in a hard state. No messy gooey mass to deal with. Some surface rust exists, so I will go to bare metal in some places using a wire brush attached to a drill. (good practice ??) Next step, I was going to take care of the bodywork using filler and spot putty then apply MP170 epoxy primer in my garage with door open for ventilation. I believe this to be a bit of a forgiving process and I think I can set the gun to give me adaquite results. My next move was rent a booth for 12 hours and apply bc/cc.

With all the reading, I realize I am not competent enough to perform all the tasks. Respirators, spray gun settings, applying coatings correctly etc...has now scared me away. The material costs and time is just too much to absorb if I need to start over.

This is what I think I can do adaquitely, and leave the bc/cc application to an experienced painter.

A- Strip paint, leaving the existing primer intact.
B- Perform all body work
C- Apply PPG Omni MP170 primer
D- Have the bc/cc applied by a professional.

Questions:

1- Should I coat the bare metal prior to MP170 epoxy primer application? What product would you recommend ? The spec sheet for the MP170 says 1 coat. Is 2 better ? I purchased a gallon. How far will this go ?

2- Do I apply any other substrate after applying the MP170 ? I plan on having the car in for bc/cc 1-3 days max. after the MP170 applied.

3- Should I have MP170 shot 1 last time prior to bc/cc application ? If so, can the bc/cc be applied very shortly after ? Spec sheet indicates 15 min. dry time with acetone.

4-What Omni bc/cc would you recommend ? I would want this applied in the shortest possible time. I can't leave my car tied up in a paint booth for days. Basicially paint in the evening and pick it up the following morning.

Thank you all for you your inputs and suggestions. You may not need to address everything. I'll try and piece it all together with all the replys received. I hope I'm on the right track here.

Carl

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 7:16 pm
1) just clean the bare metal with windex, and apply ONE THIN coat of the mp170 (no, 2 coats is not needed) that gallon will cover a large school bus, and I bet you can shoot the entire car wih less than a quart (mixed & sprayable)

2) you only have about 48 hours after the mp170 is applied before it needs to be scuffed an re-applied (I know the p sheets say 3 days, but REAL WORLD, no)
and no, as long as the work is straight and SMOOTH (240 for a solid color, and 320 for a metallic[ALWAYS shoot a groundcoat for a metallic, the shop should know this] ) you do not need anything on top of the mp170 before shooting the BC/CC

3) DO NOT USE ACETONE FOR REDUCING MP170 (again, I know what the p sheets say, but REAL WORLD: try acetone over about 64F degrees , and you'll have a surface as pebbley as 40 grit sand paper (and THAT will HAVE to be sanded out before topcoating) so just use the correct temp OMNI MR reducers for MP170
you do not need to re-apply the mp170 UNLESS you went over 48 hours, then yes, as in #2
wait AT LEAST 12 hours before topcoating mp170 (yes I know the p sheets say 30 minutes, but the p sheets don't have to re-paint the car, because you can see all the sanding scratches after 3 months in the sun, eh?) so you have a 24 hour window to shoot the car, after waiting at least 12 hours (24 is better) before topcoating the MP170 (a total of 48 hours MAX)

4) choose any OMNI MBC basecoat that you like, keep in mind that metallics require MUCH more work to look good, so soild colors are the easiest to pull off.
I think ALL the OMNI clear coats preform as good or better than clears costing up to 3 times as much, I use OMNI MC262 (VOC restricted area), and the MH266 spot repair hardener (kicks faster), and I also like to add up to 10% MX195 accelerator (that way the paint is hand slick set in 17 minutes so you dont get a bunch of junk landing in the clear). in your case since you will be picking up the car the next day, I would definately use the faster activator, and the MX195, also be aware that the clear will still be fairly soft for about a week after shooting (if you color sand and polish (wait at least 24 hours) it's about 4 or 5 days),....now the clear will not be FULLY cured for about 30-45 days (depending on how many coats they shot) so you CANNOT wax it until then.
so if you pick it up the next day, drive to your driveway, and let it sit for a few days, before driving it.

correctly applied OMNI paint jobs I have seen last longer then ten years,....
it's much better paint, than the price indicates

great stuff,....
"I believe the state of arkansas flag colors should be,...................PRIMER"



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2005 9:09 am
Thank you reckon for your lengthy and informative reply. I appreciate it.

1- Concerning base coats, you suggest MBC. I discovered that there appears to be 3 types. The MBC acrylic base coat, folowed by a 3.5, then 4.5. What are the differences ? Do I just pick one ? Are there cost differences ? What is the difference compared to the MCV base coat ? The base coat will be white if thats of any help.

2- Cocerning clears, you suggest MC262. I am not in a VOC restricted area. Other posts I have read have suggested MC161. Can you explain the differences ?

3- You suggest using MH266 hardener. "kicks faster" What exactly does that mean ?

4- MX195 accelerator. I assume this helps the clear to dry faster. Right ? How much should I purchase for a mid size car ?

Recon, I am not looking for a show room condition finish. I would like to be conversative with associated finishing costs but definitively not go the cheapest route also.

Thank you sir.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2005 9:31 am
why is it when I write almost a page of answers, I ALWAYS get MORE questions?

use the non voc clear if your area allows it.

MBC acrylic basecoat is what I was reffering to.
for white, it's alot thicker than the other colors for some reason, so reduce white 1:1, and add 10% to 20% more reducer. (almost 1: 1 1/2)

the OMNI clears have two types of hardeners, one for spot repairs, and one for full size jobs. "kick" means how fast the urethane "sets hard" after you mix the hardener. using the faster setting hardener, and the accellerator, will make the clear set a little faster, so it'll be harder, when you pick it up the next day.

accellerator is added 10% to mixed (but not reduced) clear, so that should tell you how much you need.



you should be good to go now,.,........
"I believe the state of arkansas flag colors should be,...................PRIMER"



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 2:25 pm
wish I read this about MP170 and acetone before yesterday. :roll:



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Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:51 pm
PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:22 am
what does mpc refer to. LM thanks!



Settled In
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:51 pm
PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:24 am
what does mbc refer to. LM thanks!

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