Painting over previous paint job

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:17 am
[quote="autopainter1960
Not if its factory lacquer, then you have other considerations.
With your lack of experience you should not just blurt out blanket statements to mess other people up.[/quote]

It is IMPOSSIBLE to take the time in this format to completely cover ALL the possibilities and contingencies when you answer someone's question. You would have to type a novel to cover everything completely!!! You just HAVE TO assume that the person asking the question has done SOME research on their own and has taken the time to learn SOMETHING as basic as to not paint over a laquer paint job with something that would cause the paint to turn loose.

I admit I have never painted for a living. But I certainly am not "inexperienced" as you try to say. I have been painting for 20 years in my garage and I'll put my paint jobs up against yours any day. Just because you work in a body shop doesn't mean you know it all either. I've seen more substandard work come out of body shops than good work. I'm not trying to get the car out the door as fast as possible and I'm not worried about making a profit so I take the time to do my paint jobs right!! 8)

I also have never answered anybody's question unless I have had some experience personally with the same situation. I wouldn't want to steer anyone wrong. I also don't comment about products that I have never personally used like a lot of people in here do.
"EZ"
Ringgold, GA.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:58 pm
K great thanx man. Even tho i know whats underneath as far as how many paint jobs etc i KNOW that the prep wasnt very good so ill just take 80 grit to it and sand it all down then resurfacer it and get it right.

thanx :D

-B-


Ezrider800 wrote:
B-Unit wrote:
Ezrider800 wrote:If it is a FACTORY paint job I'd just scuff it and shoot it. If it was done by anybody else I'd sand it real good then seal it first before shooting a new paint job on top of it.


ezrider. what do you mean by sand it real good??


If it was a factory paint job you could just sand with 400 grit and shoot your paint. The Factory paint job is a very solid base that you don't need to primer over or seal most of the time. This is assuming no body work is necessary.

The reason I said I would "sand it real good" if it wasn't a factory paint job it because you never know if the old paint job was done properly or more importantly the prep work was done properly. If it wasn't a Factory paint job I'd start with 80 grit and a DA and sand most of the old paint back off and start over. You might find 3 or 4 paint jobs underneath when you do this!!!! :shock: It would be a big waste of time and effort to put a good paint job over crappy old work and then have problems down the road.

So my rule of thumb would be if you don't know what's under your paint job then SAND IT DOWN!! :D
The Noobs will Rule!



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:30 pm
Ezrider800 wrote:It is IMPOSSIBLE to take the time in this format to completely cover ALL the possibilities and contingencies when you answer someone's question. You would have to type a novel to cover everything completely!!! You just HAVE TO assume that the person asking the question has done SOME research on their own and has taken the time to learn SOMETHING as basic as to not paint over a laquer paint job with something that would cause the paint to turn loose.


I agree 100%. I have the problem of glossing over posts which makes it even worse.



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 6:10 am
So what are you supposed to do with the older GM factory lacquer? What can go over it or does it have to be removed?

Mike



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 12:15 pm
Mike, that is the funny part about this discussion, it most CERTAINLY does NOT need to be removed. You can paint right over an old lacquer paint job without anything happening. It is just that what you have is a plaster of paris foundation under your house instead of contrete.

MILLIONS, upon MILLIONS of GM cars have been repainted with enamel, urethanes and bc/ccs over the years, that is a fact. These paint jobs aren't falling off, they are just not the best, most durable paint jobs in the world.

It is "best" to remove the old paint, however the "Bestest" may be sanding and sealing, only YOU know. To strip a car is a HUGE, HUGE undertaking and can be SERIOUSLY overwelming. I have striped and painted many GM cars and I have sanded and painted many of them, it really depends on what is the "Bestest" way. In my case, some were customers some were my own. What the "customers" expectations were is what made the difference.

Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 12:51 pm
I was trained in I car for lil while. Paint jobs Bc CC last in conditions 3 years from new. So i guess strip the clear coat off and sand & scuff the base over and shoot base then clear. lol Thats if you want perfect. Me i wouldnt care. If i could help it i would put my car in a climate controlled environment like a garage thats heated. Then you would get more years out of your paint job. Other than that i just keep car washing and wax every 6 months.



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 10:58 am
B-Unit wrote:K great thanx man. Even tho i know whats underneath as far as how many paint jobs etc i KNOW that the prep wasnt very good so ill just take 80 grit to it and sand it all down then resurfacer it and get it right.


I think you'll be way ahead in the long run by sanding it down and starting over. Nothing worse than to get half way into a paint job only to start having problems. Then if you painted over the old paint job you have to wonder if THAT is the problem or something else went wrong??? At least this way after sanding it down and sealing it properly, you won't have to worry.

Good luck with it!! :D
"EZ"
Ringgold, GA.
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