kirker paint

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3957
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:59 am
Location: Louisville, KY
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 5:57 am
The Kirker urethanes that I have tried don't cover very well at all.
They are very transparent and take many coats to cover.
I think that's what gives it it's depth.
So plan on using more than normal.
I bought 2 gallons and mixed them together in 1 quart cans to
assure color match. Kirker paint is known to vary a little so if you
are going to need more than a gallon, buy 2 and mix them first.
My Honda is taking a little more than a gallon so I'm glad I got 2.
There's only 3 quarts of paint in a Kirker urethane gallon. 8)
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)

User avatar

No Turning Back
Posts: 686
Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Rockville, MD
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:43 am
JC has a lot more experience than I do, but the blue paint I am using covers in two coats.
I can paint a fender using only 3 oz of paint.
I'm guessing your bumper will take maybe 4-5 oz.
BTW buff color is beige.
Also you should definitely spray primer surfacer so you can smooth out and fill any low spots.
There is no one right way to paint a car, but there are a whole lot of wrong ways

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3957
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:59 am
Location: Louisville, KY
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:14 am
Wow, that's great to hear.
The one I'm using is one of their newer high metallic ones that looks
a lot like candy, it's real tranlucent. More of a "custom" color.
It's like spraying water it's so thin.
It's probably a lot different than their normal line of colors.
Good to hear yours covers so well, that's encourageing. 8)
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



Settled In
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:06 am
Location: toronto
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:51 am
my car: 1994 Civic, color is milano red. I'll be getting the porsche red. its not a metalic color.

so, for my car i would go with "buff" primer. and your suggesting i get 2 gallons of paint?

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3957
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:59 am
Location: Louisville, KY
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:08 pm
No, not really.
Some colors obviously cover better than others.
Like the blue mentioned above.
And I don't know which ones do or don't.
I just know the last two I picked were pretty weak.
If you're going to paint everything, like jams and undersides
of trunk lid, and hood, etc. then I would opt for the two gallons
if using the Kirker urethane since it's really only 3 quarts.
But just painting the outside surfaces of a small car you may
get by with a gallon, but you'd be cutting it close.
You should try and plan on having some left over for any future repairs
too, so a little extra is always a good thing. 8)
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)

User avatar

No Turning Back
Posts: 686
Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 8:50 am
Location: Rockville, MD
PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:33 pm
:D
Last edited by CoolasIce on Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
There is no one right way to paint a car, but there are a whole lot of wrong ways



Settled In
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:06 am
Location: toronto
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:50 pm
well howdy. thanks for all the input. which is a darker red. porsche red or flame red?


got a few more questions.

once i do a coat of base do i let it flash and then do another coat? can i let it dry then wetsand with (insert grit)? and then shoot another coat of base? and how do apply clear. the same manner. wetsand the base and then shoot clear, 1st coat then flash time then 2nd coat then flash time 3rd coat. etc...? what if i have to stop in the middle for some reason can i just wetsand and then shoot another coat?

thanks

User avatar

No Turning Back
Posts: 854
Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2003 12:50 am
Location: Cleburne, TX
PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:36 pm
It's best to recoat after the flash period. I don't recommend sanding the base. Besides that's a lot of extra work. So just it flash and recoat. You can apply your clear after the last coat of base has flashed or no later than the next day.

The paint has a better adhesion to still new coats. You will have a chemical bonding rather than a mechanical bonding. With the Chemical bonding, it's like each coat of paint is ONE thick coat.

Frank
Previous

Return to Body and Paint

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: NFT5 and 134 guests