The Kirker urethanes that I have tried don't cover very well at all.
They are very transparent and take many coats to cover.
I think that's what gives it it's depth.
So plan on using more than normal.
I bought 2 gallons and mixed them together in 1 quart cans to
assure color match. Kirker paint is known to vary a little so if you
are going to need more than a gallon, buy 2 and mix them first.
My Honda is taking a little more than a gallon so I'm glad I got 2.
There's only 3 quarts of paint in a Kirker urethane gallon.
kirker paint
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JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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JC has a lot more experience than I do, but the blue paint I am using covers in two coats.
I can paint a fender using only 3 oz of paint. I'm guessing your bumper will take maybe 4-5 oz. BTW buff color is beige. Also you should definitely spray primer surfacer so you can smooth out and fill any low spots. There is no one right way to paint a car, but there are a whole lot of wrong ways
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Wow, that's great to hear.
The one I'm using is one of their newer high metallic ones that looks a lot like candy, it's real tranlucent. More of a "custom" color. It's like spraying water it's so thin. It's probably a lot different than their normal line of colors. Good to hear yours covers so well, that's encourageing. JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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my car: 1994 Civic, color is milano red. I'll be getting the porsche red. its not a metalic color.
so, for my car i would go with "buff" primer. and your suggesting i get 2 gallons of paint? |
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No, not really.
Some colors obviously cover better than others. Like the blue mentioned above. And I don't know which ones do or don't. I just know the last two I picked were pretty weak. If you're going to paint everything, like jams and undersides of trunk lid, and hood, etc. then I would opt for the two gallons if using the Kirker urethane since it's really only 3 quarts. But just painting the outside surfaces of a small car you may get by with a gallon, but you'd be cutting it close. You should try and plan on having some left over for any future repairs too, so a little extra is always a good thing. JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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Last edited by CoolasIce on Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
There is no one right way to paint a car, but there are a whole lot of wrong ways
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well howdy. thanks for all the input. which is a darker red. porsche red or flame red?
got a few more questions. once i do a coat of base do i let it flash and then do another coat? can i let it dry then wetsand with (insert grit)? and then shoot another coat of base? and how do apply clear. the same manner. wetsand the base and then shoot clear, 1st coat then flash time then 2nd coat then flash time 3rd coat. etc...? what if i have to stop in the middle for some reason can i just wetsand and then shoot another coat? thanks |
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It's best to recoat after the flash period. I don't recommend sanding the base. Besides that's a lot of extra work. So just it flash and recoat. You can apply your clear after the last coat of base has flashed or no later than the next day.
The paint has a better adhesion to still new coats. You will have a chemical bonding rather than a mechanical bonding. With the Chemical bonding, it's like each coat of paint is ONE thick coat. Frank No better smell than fresh paint.
http://www.use.com/editset.pl?set=67406f07b7eb93a2633d http://www.coxcustomcarstx.com/ |
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