Purpose of low pressure drop coat?

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 3:53 pm
Old Dupont Guy wrote:WOW! I cant believe that they teach that :shock:

That seems like it would be almost impossible to do it that way. I wouldn't even think of doing it like that.
Its so easy the other way,,,a cave man could do it.


In the same breath, 'they' suggest attempting a single stage blend only in an area where you might get away with it. ( below the sight line ) and as a last resort.

It's not something we dwelled on as I'm not sure who is actually doing single stage blends?? We sure covered tri coat blends in detail :shock: ..and as a resto guy it was all new to me!



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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 7:44 pm
Who said anything about starting from farthest to into the repair. That process is used when spraying a tri-coat. Reasons for that is distribution of the pearls into your blend area because of it's transparency you wan't it to progress darker into the repair. What I talk about is control of your pressure and fluid corresponding to your trigger control. If you are flipping your wrist on your extended reach you are doing it improperly. At the end of your extension you should be gradually releasing the trigger limiting the fluid transfer. To compensate for the upped air that's being used to applicate the paint on a larger area you pull your gun away from the panel in correlation to your gun pass speed.

Yes it may sound outside of norm but every painter has an attribute that many find hard to acquire. This and many other methods I find relative to the individual applicator. It's a skill that requires practice and determination to apply paint in such a fashion that it is not only commercially acceptable but demonstrates an appitude of painting skill.
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:32 pm
Robert LaPierre wrote::shock: I blend in to the repair by starting where i wan't to lose it.


that sounded like a reverse blend to me, but I sort-of understand what your saying now. I would imagine you must need outstanding wrist strength and control. Yours getting a good workout these days rob?? :wink:
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:37 pm
Robert LaPierre wrote: That process is used when spraying a tri-coat. Reasons for that is distribution of the pearls into your blend area because of it's transparency you wan't it to progress darker into the repair.


Can I get the English translation??
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:58 pm
Fair enough. To answer the latter may sound mundane but here I go.

This is in relation to spraying tri-coat. You lay you're ground coat (usually a solid color i.e. silver, white, red, or black) 3 quarters of where you'll be spraying. Okay here is a better way to explain. Cover your damaged panel and extend a quarter of the way to the adjaccent panels. When you come with your pearl (mica) you want to start 2 thirds into the blend panel (away from repaired panel) and start working in. Which means your succesive passes should start a third of the way in towards your repair. Gradually achieving a "FADE". Because the last coat is so translucent, You achieve the desired color at the repair area depending upon your sprayout. Your spray out will tell you how many coats are required to achieve your desired "Look".

Yes I agree this may sound confusing to some yet it is a necessary evil a good painter goes through to achieve a unrecognisable repair. Yes it takes extreme wrist and body strength but working yourself into this routine will develop the necessary muscles to adapt. This is a recipe for carpotunnel syndrome but this is what we sacrifice to be among the elite.
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 9:46 pm
One word of advice to the rookies that read this ,,,DONT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 9:48 pm
Old Dupont Guy wrote:One word of advice to the rookies that read this ,,,DONT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!


agree, i'd advise the veterans to stay away from this too!!
Last edited by jimmo on Mon May 05, 2008 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:54 am
Even to a rookie, that seems like an awful amount of work to achieve the same result.

I blend from the repair out....building layers from the center out. After I get the desired height I wet sand on a small block to feather the layers out. If its still too low, I apply more and sand again. I use the water to check the reflections and see how the repair is progressing. When I'm satisfied, I spray 2 more coats covering the entire repair and feathering out heavily on the 2nd coat to gradually transition into the existing color. Not recommended, but I even did this technique to blend lacquer spray bomb Bright White into a SS job and you couldn't tell by the time I was done. :D
PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:05 am
,,Bobby,,,are we talking about base or what?

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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 3:56 pm
Base, 2k filler primer, etc....I always start at the center and work out. Think of it like filling in a crater to be level with the rest of the surface. The only problem is, if you don't get all your layers built up enough and feathered, you can have a bullseye effect.
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