quarter panel replacement

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:59 pm
dognut wrote:.I was thinking about making the cut inside of the top line leaving the trunk opening untouched.The repair line would not be noticed from the side.Any tips,tricks, or suggestions.Thanks, tom

Jim, I think he is talking about welding just over the top body line from the tail light to the door. It could be done of course, but its just a lot easier to do the whole 1/4, but only if it is needed, as you said.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:21 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I guess it depends on how bad the original panel is. Personally I like to keep as much OEM as I can when restoring cars so butt welding and grinding is a necessary step. Granted sometimes you cannot access the back of the panel this way but most of the time you can. If welded properly the patch and panel become one.

Now in this case where he already has the full quarters and wants to keep welding and filler to a minimum I would follow Bloverby's advice as it makes the most sense.


The guy who did my cousin's car told him to look for original panels, not aftermarket. If he couldn't find them, then patch panels would have to do. He found original quarters in good shape, with not much looking. Guess he got lucky on that one.



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:19 am
Thats exact were I would cut it right behind the top line down an inch or so or right inside the curve area from door jam fold to the upper trunk corner.



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:25 am
Are these replacements, NOS panels, or reproduction? And how bad are the originals? Pics?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 10:01 am
Ed said,,"Seems to me, it's easier and/or faster to replace the whole panel than do all that welding and filling".

,,you right Ed. You also dont run into a lot of problems later on.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:20 pm
OldDupontGuy wrote:Ed said,,"Seems to me, it's easier and/or faster to replace the whole panel than do all that welding and filling".

,,you right Ed. You also dont run into a lot of problems later on.


Thought so. From the door jamb to the rear is over 4'. That's a big piece to line up nice and straight, and a whole lot of stitching.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 6:57 am
how do you guy feel about a pneumatic crimping tool , to lap weld a skin on? other then seeing the lap from the trunk area

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:09 pm
My concerns with lap welding are two fold:
1. It produces a potential pocket for rust.
2. It requires welding on both sides of the panel to obtain an invisible repair.

With butt welds there is no metal overlap where rust could develop undetected. There is only one seam to weld and finish and when done properly all but a very experienced body man would be able to tell a repair was made by inspection either inside or out.

Just my opinion but you did ask for it. :wink:
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