Custom Drip Rail...How Do I?

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:17 pm
Well its been a slow Winter & Spring. Got sidetracked with other cab related projects (steering column, AC mount, finish replacing rusted floor etc). It's finally time to again take the cab off the frame and back on rotisserie which will make doing this drip rail much easier as I can position it best for the work at hand.
I have settled on J-B Weld 2k epoxy (regular not fast) and 3/16 rod. To ensure good bond and no rust I will glass bead blast the inside of the rail clean, but have a question.
Since I can't be 100% sure of complete coverage of the bare metal with the JB-Weld should I paint the surface with 2k Epoxy paint, let that cure for 3-4 days then scuff it with Scotchbright before using the J-B or should I just work to spread the J-B completely? I have some of those http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=acid+brush short bristle "acid" brushes that should work the J-B to completely cover the blasted steel.

I think the J-B is a better way to go for most of the filling as I roll the drip rail over the rod than seam sealer around the rod topped by metal-2-metal bondo or duraglass.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:07 pm
Tireman9 wrote:Not having to work in steel would make life much easier.


I've worked worked in steel since I was 13 so that is not a problem (I'm currently 72) and I really like the look. My '54 cab is mounted on a rotisserie I fabricated so I just went out to the garage to look it over. It's a bit hard to tell what Chevrolet did without taking it apart but there is a bead of factory caulking where the roof skin sits on the drip rail. It's about dusk and the truck is under a canopy so I'll take a closer look in the morning sunlight.

My first inclination is to dig out the caulking, open up the drip rail just for more room to sand the groove with 80 grit, and then tap the drip rail closed a bit, and lead the groove. After the caulking is scratched out I should be able to see if I want to weld whatever I see in the bottom of the groove.

Lead doesn't care how thick it is and that would be simpler than adding a filler rod or sheet metal.

I had already planned to lead the seam in hood. It does have to be welded but that is not a problem. ****, now I have to shave the door handles, too.
Gale Gorman
Houston

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:38 pm
Google "3M panel bond" and do some research.............Its some good stuff!
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 2:43 pm
Well finally got up the nerve to commit. Used SEM 2k bonding as that is what was available at the store I was at.

After power wire brush I laid a bead in the rail and used an acid brush to spread it around to assure 100% coverage. Then ran 2nd bead then placed the pre-bent rod in and used vice grips to hold the rod in place. I covered the end of the vice grips w/aluminum foil so I wouldn't bond the grips to the cab :goodjob:

After everything set I used the 3-M paint stripper to clean up excess adhesive and applied Duraglass. Cut initial contour and then 2nd coat using M2M bondo. Pretty happy with the results.

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