Hello folks - I am working on a '69 Dart rear quarter panel just behind the door on the very bottom. A previous owner has covered some damage with fiberglass screen and bondo. Needless to say it looks pretty cheesy!

I have cut out the 2 areas of rust (outside layer only) and am getting ready to make patch panels to fix it correctly.

The issue is that I found leaves/pine straw and RUST on the inside of the double panel. I obviously cannot get all the rust off with sanding and wire brushing but I need to neutralize and protect as far up between the layers as possible to prevent a reoccurrence. Is a product like 3M weldable primer all I need? What is the best way?

I hope I have explained this well enough!

Get it as clean as you can, the weld through is good, but you need to go one step further.
Use a quality, ASTM-117B or SAE-J2134 tested and approved fogging rust inhibitor/preventative to "fog" into the area after paint work is done.
You can find Ford's TSB on this at Valugard.net under the Engineer's section.
I know of three products that meet these specs. Ford MotorCraft, Chrysler MoPar and Valugard are the products.

Am I to believe that the inner frame rail product from Eastwood is not of any real value?

The application method seems to be the handiest I have seen.

Jarhead wrote:Am I to believe that the inner frame rail product from Eastwood is not of any real value?
The application method seems to be the handiest I have seen.

I've been disappointed in most of the stuff I've bought from Eastwood, especially their paint products. Their body hammers are great but they are Martin, and who can screw up a hammer.

The hidden areas have concerned me too but I'll come up with something other than trusting Eastwood's 'research' department.

My plan at this point is to remove as much rust and dirt as possible and then use phosphoric acid generously. When that dries I'll blow it out with air and use a good zinc chromate primer, again generously, and let that cure thoroughly.

I'm currently working on a '54 Chevy truck and the cab is currently on a rotisserie I fabricated. There are several areas that will get this treatment. Hopefully it will be a lot of years before I find out it didn't work.

When I peeled off the old original sound deadening stuff on the inside of the firewall I was surprised to find the original cold rolled sheet metal looking like it did 59 years ago. So that speaks volumes for the tar-like stuff impregnating the batting.

There has got to be a more effective way to deal with the areas you just cannot reach. I my case (1969 Dart) the areas inside and behind the tail lights and the trunk extensions are the biggest issues. I need to replace some metal near the tail light lenses and what is behind it concerns me.

Sorry - maybe I just worry too much!

How would I use the fore mentioned fogging product after this is sealed up?

[bThe "fogging gun" comes with two wands, one short, one long, the long has a 360 degree spray nozzle. Insert in any access hole of the panel. Pull the trigger for 5 to 15 seconds, until you see the "fog" of the product coming out the access hole you inserted into. The "entire" inner surfaces are now coated. It is NOT necessary to apply a "thick" coat of the right product. It's film will force any moisture away from any bare metal and coat it, last for years and years.
This is the system used by Ford, Chrysler, Hyundai, Kia, Mazda, etc for collision repair and warranty corrosion repairs.
You can see how it is done, by going to valugard.net and the training video for new vehicle application, then the various TSB's can be read under the "engineering" section.][/b]