Need door fit & gap help

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 2:14 pm
51 Chevy P/U Hanging the driver door. First build
Along the line I have confirmed the cab was hit hard plus when I replaced the cowl I made the mistake of trying to fix some bent panels without getting all the measurements. Well this is how you learn :cry:

So now I need to recover and need some advice on fitting the door.

Areas w/problems:
1. Top front of door is inset from cowl about 3/16"
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at the high belt line. Here are the dims
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Not sure why the door is in-set as the door does not appear to be bent.
I am closing the gap by building up edge of door with SiliconBronze. learning as I go. I am concerned that 3/16 thick "bondo" is too thick. Ideas appreciated.


2. Top Rear of door is set out from body
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about where the handle was. Here are the dims
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No the door is not bent out due to filling in the handle. The rear of the cab was hit and pushed in. I have already removed the original 1/4" - 3/8" thick bondo and brought the cab out about 3/8" and have just a skim coat of M2M bondo but this isn't enough ( this was done based on using a profile gauge while I should have mounted the door and tried to match that. Much smaller area of rear cab needs to come out to match door contour but there isn't any metal left to straighten out so at a loss of what to do. Ideas appreciated.

3. I am also working on the door gap.
Most of the lower part of the front gap is good
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Initially the rear gap was negative 1/8 to negative 3/16 but I ground the edge back and tig welded it (in 1" increments so I didn't loose the skin)
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I am closing the gap with the SiBr and increasing ti by grinding the edge back. I assume this is an acceptable approach.


Top part of the door gap varies but I may leave it alone.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:39 pm
In the picture that shows the door handle patch it's clear the belt line doesn't match from door to cab. Is the cab still on the frame? If so you probably need to play with the mounting shims. I've had a few old AD trucks and currently have my '54 cab off the frame and on a rotisserie I fabricated. The cab is somewhat flexible. The belt line is right at eye level and it has to line up to look good. The in and out fitting of the door is adjustable unless the door is bent in the jamb. Even that can be straightened.

I only use lead for filling. It stands up well if the joint is welded underneath. I did another '54 a lot of years ago and welded the seam in the hood and filled it with lead. The hood is almost like a wet noodle compared to later models with a subframe.
Gale Gorman
Houston

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 6:43 pm
Take a look at the video I posted this morning, where my body guy is closing the gap in the door frame to match the narrower doors from my new front clip.

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=22304

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