Your expert gave you excellent advice,the most important thing that he said is what I also suggested.Making sure your seam is welded solid with no pinholes and cleaned before and after welding with a mig.He also states using a 3m clean and strip disk(I also suggested this) after to give a nice surface to apply lead.Leaded seams are very nice and look awesome,the problem comes from not getting it super clean after.This can cause a problem if it is not perfect and the surface needs to be tweaked to perfection with a bit of filler.If it is not done correctly no paint product will stick to it,the acid from the flux and tinning butter or bees wax/motor oil that is used to tool the lead into shape WILL cause adhesion issues.I will also add that Scott and myself have been in the industry full time doing collision repairs and high dollar restorations for 30 years with hundreds if not thousands of quarter seams done successfully with out ghosting,cracking etc.When done properly either method will work just fine.I believe the reason for the mopar guys saying lead only is that on a unibody car like the old mopars body flex is inevitable and lead gives you a bit of flexability,new cars do not have this issue.You are on the right track,keep us posted with your progress,and more pictures of your car please

I will do so...... Im building a Protouring 1970 Cuda with a full Frame...Ill keep you guys posted on this thread as it sounds you have interest in this build....thx again

You might consider a thread over in the projects section. It looks like a nice project, and a good work environment, is that where you work, or just have a space there? Lead is absolutely a good option, I'm just hesitant to recommend it because of the problems that can occur if not done properly, but I'm betting that won't be a problem in your case. The biggest problem that I have encountered with it is getting the metal clean enough before appling flux, that is why he grinds the pits, gouges, and sand scratches before the clean and strip to make it smooth and clean. I'll be watching for updates.

Chevman like I have previously stated many times you have to clean all the pits crevices of the seam with a spot sand blaster before and after welding and before using a grinder and 3m clean and strip disk.I still say once this is done correctly short strand glass will hold up just like lead.If you are stuck on lead find a real old school craftsman who is an expert with using lead by all means pay him well to come over and do it for you.This is the only way to insure it is done properly,nobody wants to have to redo it down the road.I would also strip that car to bare metal so you know all of the trouble areas that need to be addressed.I also talk to a mopar expert regularly and he frequents this and other forums and he does not use lead.You could contact him if you wish and get his reply on the matter.
http://elitecustoms.net/index2.htm

vilzrod wrote: The other place I insist on using lead is on the roof seams and rocker panel to quarter joints. These seams are vulnerable to “telegraphing”. A condition where the seam becomes visible in the hot sun. It’s caused by differences in expansion of the different metal thicknesses and stress differences of the panels. Use of any plastic based filler will not stop it!...This includes All Metal, Metal-To-Metal, Tiger Hair, DuraGlas, any ‘glass strand fillers, etc. The only cure I’ve had success with is to lead the seam.

Leadwork can haunt you if it’s not done exactly right. Every step must be done correctly.

Rick
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If this is true then why are none of my jobs coming back for repair, or any other person I know in the business getting complaints when not using lead?

The fully welded sails on my 67 Camaro were finished with short strand and filler in 1994. 24K non pampered, abused miles, subjected to inclement weather, brutal heat and sun, very often not garaged and no evidence of ghost lines. If ghosts are evident with filler it's because prep and use of materials was done incorrectly.

Scott : I wish I knew... all I know is I had ghosting with Dura glass .... All i know is that it was a very tough contaminated weld went alot of tungstens I tell you... got it done very minimal heat... Lead smoke like a auto factory but no warpage...... I cut in a new window corner piece as well.. it all went well...I did up the trunk filler as well much cleaner welding when you have clean metal to work with

I will try to get the old school guy to do the leading if for some reason he has retired or is not doing i guess i will have to figure something else out ...

The reason you had ghosting was your seam was not welded solid,not the duraglass.Clean it like was suggested before and you will be on the right track.If you are going for a custom smooth body welding the quarter to trunk filler seam makes sense if thats the look you want.There is a lot of heat put into the quarter seam,a mig would have been a better choice but you have to make due with what you have.Good job so far...

Jayson...thats fair.. the movement because being spot welded does make sense.. You look at the original seam and there was like 8 spot welds now there is like 300.... Do you put everglass over epoxy primer?

Yes you can do it that way or over fresh clean bare metal,either one will work.If you choose the epoxy route follow the tds to the letter with flashtime.

well after all that drama I have put it all in epoxy primer as I cannot find anyone to lead it.. too much a pain in the A** to buy it and learn it for a one shot deal for me.. I will go the everglass route since it has been fully welded it HOPEFULLY will have no issues down the road...