To flange or not to flange?

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 3:01 pm
I have some seriously rusted wheel arches on a pick up bed and want to repair with patch panels. I have a mig and a flanger.
I want to avoid warpage. I was thinking about rounding out the corners and flanging the flatter areas and plug welding. Should I stray away from the body lines with the flanger and just butt weld those areas? Is plug welding enough or does it need a continous weld? How to seal up the back side? May also consider epoxy glue.
Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:27 pm
weld-through primer on the exposed surfaces, and undercoating sprayed in afterward if you have (or can drill) an access hole.

On a panel repair like that it's best to butt-weld, you can jump the welds around but you should end up with a continuous air-tight weld that you can grind flat. You can do a lap with plug welds like you describe but I think it gives you a greater chance for rust forming, later. If you want to flange the edge and lap it, I'd probably opt for panel adhesive instead.



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 6:16 am
Butt welding is best but the back still has to be treated; epoxy is good for that. Undercoating does offer the corrosion protection of epoxy. The hotspot caused by welding will begin to rust immediately. Lap or flanging can be done but the backside must be completely sealed. Plug welding is not enough, a ghost line will result and corrosion potential is great. Flanging tools also flatten the panel's edge. If there is a crown it will be removed, and the contour of the panel no longer consistent. Panel adhesive is not recommended for exposed mid panel repairs, it even states so on the TDS. Again, a ghost line will be evident.

Repair choice depends on what type of job it is.

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