Advice needed on light rust repair

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



Non-Lurker
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 4:23 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 5:20 pm
Hey there everybody. I have an 01 ram 2500 that I am getting ready to do body work on and repaint. I work at a body shop but my boss does not like to do any rust work so I haven't learned it yet. I know you need to cut away the rot and replace it.
I have some pin holes in my rockers, a 2X2" hole in a cab corner(opened to that size once I cut rust out) and two small holes on each side of the box on the wheel wells. Can I get away with just cutting the bad spots out and cutting patches to weld in and smooth out with filler? Or is it better to get new cab corners, wheel arch patches cab corners etc. Trying to save a little money and keep my truck looking nice. I have tons of money into this thing and want it to last. Would like advice from someone with firsthand experience with rust.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 9878
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:35 pm
Can you post up some pictures. Much easier to give advice when you can see the problem areas.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Non-Lurker
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 4:23 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 11:19 pm
Image


There is the driverside cab corner. Obviously I will clean the hole up better and cut it square for a patch. My question is, will this last or will my new paint end up bubbling off?

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 9878
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:09 pm
You will need to be sure to cut all the rust out.
You can clean up and paint the inside with epoxy primer to help prevent existing rust from spreading. A brush or foam pad can be used to try and get in the cracks and crevices as well as the back side of the panel as far as you can reach.
Cut your patch to fit as tightly as possible and use magnets to hold in place. Make sure you practice with your welder on thin metal to get the adjustments just right. Then tack your patch in place at the corners. From there it will be a series of small tack welds added to the existing welds. Go slow, alternate spots and let the welds cool so you don't warp the panel.
I like to periodically grind the tops off the tack welds so as to prevent any large build up. When doing patches if you can access to the back side you should planish your welds however in this case it will not be possible. Welding tends to draw the metal in so planishing puts it back into place.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Non-Lurker
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 4:23 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:17 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:You will need to be sure to cut all the rust out.
You can clean up and paint the inside with epoxy primer to help prevent existing rust from spreading. A brush or foam pad can be used to try and get in the cracks and crevices as well as the back side of the panel as far as you can reach.
Cut your patch to fit as tightly as possible and use magnets to hold in place. Make sure you practice with your welder on thin metal to get the adjustments just right. Then tack your patch in place at the corners. From there it will be a series of small tack welds added to the existing welds. Go slow, alternate spots and let the welds cool so you don't warp the panel.
I like to periodically grind the tops off the tack welds so as to prevent any large build up. When doing patches if you can access to the back side you should planish your welds however in this case it will not be possible. Welding tends to draw the metal in so planishing puts it back into place.


Alright thank you, should I cut the patch the same size as the hole and tack around it it? or slightly bigger and use a flinging tool to recess the edges of the area to be patched and then lay it in and tack it?

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 9878
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:59 pm
Personally I butt weld (make the patch same size as the hole and a nice tight fit) as flanges just seem to me like great places for rust to start.
If I use panel adhesive then I flare the edges because the flange will be filled with adhesive.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



* Banned *
Posts: 496
Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:33 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 2:05 pm
I do a great deal of rat repair on late model trucks, including that gen Dodge. Your truck is worse than what shows. The rockers are a triple wall design that rot from the inside terribly. There are holes on the inside of the rocker that allow salt and C.C. to enter and ruin them. I glue on full rockers and do not use slip-ons. Cut that cab corner way back. Bedsides are a joke. Dodge uses NVH to glue the side the wheelhouse, nad dirt gets stuck between the panels. What small holes you see are only the beginning of the disaster on the inside. Buttweld nearly every repair, flanging only works for certain circumstances. Buy cab corners and bedside patches, don't patch that POS metal. Look at the rot behind the corner, you need to address all that. Pinchwelds are sure to be failing and have scale between them.



Top Contributor
Posts: 6215
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 6:31 pm
ScottB wrote:I do a great deal of rat repair on late model trucks, including that gen Dodge. Your truck is worse than what shows. The rockers are a triple wall design that rot from the inside terribly. There are holes on the inside of the rocker that allow salt and C.C. to enter and ruin them. I glue on full rockers and do not use slip-ons. Cut that cab corner way back. Bedsides are a joke. Dodge uses NVH to glue the side the wheelhouse, nad dirt gets stuck between the panels. What small holes you see are only the beginning of the disaster on the inside. Buttweld nearly every repair, flanging only works for certain circumstances. Buy cab corners and bedside patches, don't patch that POS metal. Look at the rot behind the corner, you need to address all that. Pinchwelds are sure to be failing and have scale between them.



:goodpost: That rot underneath looks bad gonna have to blast that clean and treat it
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

Return to Welding & Metal Fab

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 44 guests