Matching factory orange peel with waffle pad

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:35 pm
hey everyone. Here's a question about matching factory orange peel and achieving the same texture as factory finish. This is for repainting single panels.

Is a waffle pad the pad to use when sanding orange peel a little but not all the way?

I have sanded new paint jobs flat and polished them. But they have to be completely flat or have very little to no orange peel in areas. I used a wool pad on these finishes. If the panel was not flat. The area would still look hazy.

So if I repaint a panel and have more orange peel that factory, if I light sand down the peel and use a waffle pad, will it bring back the shine? Or am I doing something wrong.
I can never get a good finish with a little sanding and a little peel left, it has to be completely flat for me to get a good finish.

Thanks in advance and hope my question makes sense.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 7:47 am
makes perfect sense.

what i do and it may or may not work for you, i de nib with 1500 wet very lightly then move to 2000 wet and rub the whole panel down not really focusing on anything too much just making sure the panel all gets hit evenly then i step up to 3000 trizact on my orbital and go over the panel real slow and lots of water from a spray bottle. wipe dry and polish. white foam or white wool, then yellow wool polishing pad or black foam polishing pad. and swirl remover should be good dogo after that. although matching factory orange peel is learned through practice and is different from car brands. hope this helps
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 5:39 pm
You'll never match factory peel through any kind of sanding or buffing process. Sanding makes the tops of the highs flat, which never happens ex-factory, while buffing wears down both the high and low spots.

What you need to do is learn how to match the peel off the gun so that you can duplicate at least the two most common types, European and Asian. Then work on the variations of these.

For European type peel reduce pressure and move out a touch; for Asian increase pressure a little and reduce fluid flow. These are just starting points - you need to experiment with different settings, maybe different guns, until you can create exactly the finish you want.
Chris

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 7:15 pm
he is also correct in adjusting your gun properly and I could go on and on how you need to do this and that but the facts are you both paint and polish in a production shop. Not "cut and buff" but "denib" and "polish" all three different things. Matching a factory orange peel is a complete process from start to finish. Ford for example uses very heavy orange peel on the F series trucks do to "stamp lines" in the sheet metal from factory so you may need to lower your air and spray heavy. High end cars like Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Cadillac V series, corvettes etc etc are all cut and polished at the factory so you may need to do the same. Something that may help you is a orange peel deck. If you are in a production shop ask your rep if they have one. It is a deck of 10 sprayed metal chips ranging from 1 to 10 and 1 being a rough orange and 10 being a cut and buffed glass like finish. Mack truck standard is 8 most North America cars are around 6 and high end cars will get in the 9s.

I can help you more if you would like to post your set up.
Gun ?
Nozzle ?
Paint ?
Temp in booth ?
Humidity ?
PSI in the booth you're running gun off of ?
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 2:07 am
Thanks for the replies guys!
I was just thinking today about how this topic never got replies.

NFT5 I have been reading and looking at how people aim to match factory orange peel.
Thanks for the tip on the asian and german cars.
Would you say german cars have less over spray then due to the lower psi?

Dave, good to know theres cards with variations of peel, I will have to get a set and keep practicing with different gun settings to try and match peel.
Doesn't matter in my current situation though, every car no matter the make, at work is cut and buffed over the painted area only. :whoops:
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 3:59 pm
here is a link with some tools from 3M pay attention mostly to the Trizact paper it is amazing stuff and goes a long way.

this system is designed to help the painter match orange peel through polishing. it may or may not help some of you. but goes to show you matching orange peel is not done only at the gun. it is a combination of tools and experience. the trizact is a little pricey but lasts forever. i can do a complete car with one piece. and remember there are tools out there to help you match your peel. dont be discouraged because you dont match it from the gun.
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 2:28 am
Thanks Dave, I didn't see a link in your post?

Will have to ask to the jobber for some trizact paper, the paper I'm using now cuts extremely well at first, usually use 2 sheets for 1 car though, after thats its prety much no good.

Will post a pic of the peel that is giving me a difficult time to buff, takes long to buff than a flat panel does. :rolleyes:
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 7:58 am
Oops lol

On my way to work I'll get a link for you.
Yeah try to give me some pics
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 10:20 am
Product Description
Patterned, precise mineral structures give Trizact™ abrasives the combination of fast cut and consistent finish every time. Use P1000 foam blending discs for scuff sanding blend panels prior to painting. Use P1500 clearcoat sanding discs for leveling dust nibs and sanding of mismatched orange peel. Finally, use P3000 foam disc for removing P1200-P1500 grade sand scratches prior to use of 3M™ Perfect-It™ polishing system. Foam disc used in a spot repair system for removing sanding scratches before using rubbing compound.

http://3mcollision.com/products/feature ... -3000.html








http://3mcollision.com/products/feature ... e_tracking
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 10:43 am
i use Meguiers 105 as my cutting compound

3m polishing compound and then Trizact compund all with foam pads. i can get you part numbers if you like
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