Wet sanded and finished with 2000. Bumper cover was cleared 4 days ago. Used an orange Griots pad with Megs 105 and tried to finish with the black pad and 205. This is using a DA 6". I cannot seem to get it to really shine.
This is my first go at cut and buff. Would a more aggressive pad be a likley remedy here?
Both photos are after 105 and 205. The second picture at the bottom is the peel on an edge I protected...doesnt seem like the 105 even dulled the clear here, and I couldn't get the cut area to buff to any considerable shine to somewhat match the edge. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks, Josh
Pad not up to snuff?
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You still have orange peel on there.
Did you start with 1000 and step up to 1500 and then 2000? Dump the DA and get you a rotary buffer. Use a twisted wool pad and Megs 105 and spin the buffer at about 2000 rpms. You can start slower if you like but try to get up to 2000 when you get more comfortable. 1968 Coronet R/T
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I've watched guys demo various DA and RO type buffers over the years and I'm telling you I could do with a rotary and twisted wool in minutes what these guys were struggling to "get up" for like 15 to 30 minutes. And even at that....I would still have a better depth of image... Just an opinion but our coatings are really a plastic that needs "shaped." You can exert more pressure (very controllable), rake out your wool cleaner, and add a slight heat/burnishing that those other machines just don't do on a new raw clear coat. Now, paint detailing on a fully cured film with good clarity....I can see that....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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darrel is absolutely right in that a rotary cuts the time over a DA. however, the right DA can do wonders and there is absolutely no chance of damaging the paint for someone new to buffing. i started with a PC 7424, but eventually picked up a rotary. it definately cuts time, but i still finish up with my pc7424.
i started, and still use, the twins on both new paint jobs and doing paint correction, although i now use a rotary for the 1st cut. after that, i switch to a PC 4724 and orange lake country pad. but it wont get out OP.thats a job for more sanding. what 6' DA do you have? if its one of them wallyworld buffers, you wont get anywhere. i dont even know if theyre good for spreading wax. gonna need something like the PC 7424,flex 3401, or rupes 21es. |
In order to get a clear and sharp reflection in your paint job, you must remove all the scratches. 1500, 2000 and even the fine scratches that your buffer can leave behind.
It is going the "extra mile" in refining these scratches that gives you the mirror look. In this series you can see how the reflection of the halogen light begins to clear up: Another: Swirl scratches in direct sunlight are hard to see in the shop: 1968 Coronet R/T
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Wow. Amazing. I'm willing to go the extra mile, but I'm thinking I don't know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to sanding all the previous scratches... I'm guessing I didn't get all the scratch out then.
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Coronet, Wow. Amazing. I'm willing to go the extra mile, but I'm thinking I don't know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to sanding all the previous scratches... I'm guessing I didn't get all the scratch out then. I'm guessing you used a rotary buffer...not that that would rectify all my issues, I'm just curious.
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Yes, rotary buffer is the way to go IMHO.
It may actually help your situation. I would try it doing a section with a twisted wool pad and Megs 105. Move the buffer slowly across the surface from side to side and top to bottom spinning at first around 1200 RPM and then speed it up to 2000. Switch to a foam pad and 205 and repeat the process. I think you will be surprised at the difference. 1968 Coronet R/T
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Thank you sir, I appreciate it. |
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