what to do after applying clear coat?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 3:02 pm
Said bye to my 93 Z32. Strange watching it leave...
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:16 pm
Darrel for a funiture guy you sure know a lot about automotive finishing. Lol.

Han I am going to buy that kit but I need to know, the intensive polish I use with a cutting wool pad and the final polish I use with a finishing wool pad. Then after that I can use the ultrafina right? Or something similar?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:39 pm
:lol: :lol: :lol: Yeah, go figure. I started building my first fiberglass kit car with my father when I was about 16 and just never lost the "itch" ( :lol: sorry, couldn't help myself) for working with fiberglass and coatings. Funny about the furniture connection. Automotive guys get the cutting edge finish tech. first, then it trickles down to us. I figure by painting on the side for myself and others I just get the finish tech. sooner. 8)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:45 pm
**I've adjusted my process/method. The steps below are dated...**

My steps on black after finish sanding with 2000:

1. 3M Extra Cut with wool @ 1500rpm+/-rpm
2. 3M Extra Cut with finishing foam @ 1000+/-rpm
3. 3M Swirl Remover with finishing foam @ 1000+/-rpm
4. 3M Ultrafina with blue foam @ 1000+/- rpm

Working on these steps lately:
M105 works better at lower rpm's (600-1200) and with LOTS of product...
1. Meg105 with wool @ 1500+/-rpm (maybe follow up with foam)
2. Menzerna Intensive Polish with LC white foam pad @ 1000+/-rpm
3. Menzerna Final Polish with LC black foam pad @ -1000rpm

The 3M steps are pretty standard. I'll need to make some minor
adjustments with the new products; may just go with a finishing pad
for step 2. But getting good results so far.
Last edited by Han on Fri May 15, 2009 5:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:55 pm
ooohhh... More trade secrets, Han. I'll have to take these back to the Bat Cave and see if they work, too. Sure seems like everybody's looking for the "golden fleece" when it comes to cutting and buffing. Me, too. I even started taking a polisher with me on in-home furniture jobs that I used to cut and buff by hand. My customers just think I'm gettin' old and lazy. :lol:
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:43 pm
Lol!

Everything i know and do is unoriginal (i stole it all). I also hear
that M105 is good by hand too (small spots). The new products are a bit
strange; way fast compound and never ending polishes.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:52 am
thanks for the tips. i'm still waiting on my order.

Han, i hope your z32 went to good hands instead of some teen looking for a car to drive to school. =)



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:21 am
I sold it for $500 to a buddy. The fella who helped me out when i started
this bodyshop. He's a very good painter. So it went to good hands.

If i'm lucky, i'll find a decent S30 project to replace it.

:)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:38 pm
wow, $500 for the whole car and you're charging me more than half of that to paint the bumper? haha, j/k man.

s30, you're going classic huh? that's nice man. i see a lot of s30's at the show. i'm pretty sure it'll turn out great.



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:14 am
ok update...

hmmm, i'm not fully satisfied with how the bumper is turning out so far. the paint is good, but there's no deep shine to it. the paint shop sold me the ppg clearcoat (spray can). i've used pc7424 and lc pads to apply meguiar's #95, menzerna intensive polish and final polish, and top it off with 3m imperial hand glaze. how can i get the deep shine? i guess i'm going to have to bring it to the pros to respray the clear?

pics will be up soon.
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