what to do after applying clear coat?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:20 pm
hi. first post here.

i painted small metal trim pieces using black Trim Paint by duplicolor and i followed it with duplicolor clear coat after after 45-60 mins of drying time. the surface feels a little rough and it looks whitish.

can you please tell me if i need to wet sand it with 2000 grit or just use a rubbing compound wax?

thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:18 pm
Fairlady, I guess no one wants to bash a newbie here so I'll try to be diplomatic. What you are using to finish with here is referred to as "rattle can" coatings. The Duplicolor stuff, especially is at the bottom of our automotive food chain when it comes to coatings because it is a simple 1K ( that means 1 component, no hardener) lacquer based product. The whitish look you are seeing is probably "blushing"(moisture trapped in the coating) which happened because you put too many coats of color and/or clear on too rapidly. Wet sanding won't fix this. Best advice, just leave it alone for a day and see if the whitish haze disappears on it's own. If not, spray another light coat of clear and leave it alone. It should go away. If that clear coat is still a little rough just LIGHTLY going over it with some rubbing compound will make it much smoother.
Guys here aren't being rude by not replying, it's just not the kind of coating tech. we deal with here. Read more of the threads and you'll see what most of our coating talk is about.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:11 pm
Indeed, Duplicolor is a last resort paint. You wont find it at a real auto paint supply store. There are some much much better rattle can paints, that use higher end basecoat/clearcoat systems, but you'll have to venture out of Auto Zone to find them.

I've never seen this on anything I've painted so I cant chime in here with personal experience, but I have read about a similar problem in a book about aircraft painting and the problem was exactly as described by Darrel, moisture/condensation. They said sometimes it will evaporate out, sometimes not all does and will have to be stripped and re-done. Usually because of painting in a high humidity area and putting on too heavy of coats, the evaporation of the solvents cools the part to the point it drops below the dew point and moisture begins to collect on/in the paint.

This is from what I read quite some years ago so dont hold this as spot on technical. :lol:
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:23 pm
Ram This pretty much nailed it. We still use many types of acrylic, old nitro, and conversion lacquers in the furniture industry. Blushing is even rare for us now because of better coatings. Rattle can lacquers are usually low in solids and have very simple thinners which dry fast. Thinner coats with those products, preferably in air conditioned area will help keep the blushing away.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:17 am
i appreciate your replies. i definitely need to do more readings about the "how to". the whitish/blushing was gone a little, but when i applied the rubbing compound to try to smooth out the clear, it appeared again, and the black trim appeared whitish again. i guess it's time for a re-do. i totally suck at this. :(

on the other hand, i have an air compressor at home, but i just don't know where to start so i can begin painting. i guess my biggest concern is the paint. do they come mixed already and i just have to spray it or i still have to mix many parts of many things? this is what really gets me.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:22 pm
There is a lot of tech. when it comes to automotive paints. Best thing to do is start with the How To articles found here on this site. In auto paints you have a choice of several systems such as acrylic enamel (AE), single stage urethane (SS or sometimes also called SSU), and probably the most popular base coat/clear coat (BC/CC). Almost all of these systems will use some type of hardener that must be added to the paint color and in BC/CC you also ad hardener to the clear as well. Just read, read, read, before you jump into stuff, then, start with some small practice projects.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:53 am
hi again! i've been reading a lot of stuffs around here and they are truly informative.
i've attempted to paint a bumper since i can't afford a good paint job right now. i laid the final coat of clear and wet sanded it with 2000. it came out smooth and just as i expected the bumper looks dull.
my question is, to make the paint come out, are these basically the buffing pads and tools i need:

ccs orange with 3m rubbing compound
ccs white with menzerna intensive polish
ccs gray with menzerna final polish

also, do i apply a wax right away after i go through this process? the paint is about 4 days old now as we speak.

thanks!



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:04 am
Post some pics. And no wax.

:)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:51 pm
yes, Han, i will sure post some pics of it. i'll gather the materials first and still looking around the web for the best price.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 1:37 pm
Intro kit: http://properautocare.com/magetackit.html
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