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What follows next after clear coat?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 6:02 pm
Guys, I have actually painted my 280z, I did the base coat and then I went ahead and shoot the clear coat. I still have several questions on what to do next, first I had the fenders, hood and back hatch off the car, I shoot the base and the clear coat with the parts off the car but when I started to put the car back together I accidentally scratched some parts. I had planned on putting everything back on the car and wet sanding with 1500 grit and then adding the 3rd clear coat on the whole car again. My questions are 1) The areas that I scratched, it did take the base coat off so how would you recomend that I fix this. 2) Since I saw that I was scratching some parts I went ahead and tape the fenders when I was installing the hood, but when I took of the tape off on one of the fenders the clear coat peeled off with the tape, how would you fix it? 3) The reason that I was going to put the car back together and wet sand it and reshoot it with clear was because the clear coat had some particles, I'm painting the car inside my garage and some particles did get on the clear, is this a good idea? and finally my last question is once I get everything fix again what are the process for cutting, buffing and polishing? Thanks for the help guys, I'm getting there slowly but surely. Thanks again guys for all your help.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:20 pm
I'm not a fan of spraying in a garage - ever. In your case if thats all you got, mind your fire safety and keep it clean. I would have painted the vehicle intact. For the issues of clear and base being removed you basically have a bunch of spot repairs. Take the clear off. I prefer to use SEM scuff and clean. Then reshoot the clear. Where you need to, spot paint the base. I find this easier with a touch-up gun. If you plan on cutting and buffing - you notice lots of tecture or are worried about it - shoot 3 coats. I usually only shoot 2.

After clear - I recomend taping off all your definition and styling lines. This will keep you from burning through those areas when you buff. I usually just go straight to a compound. If you have lots of texture you can wet sand with a soft block and 2,000 or 3,000 grit paper. Then buff those out. You can search the forums to read others input on this.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:01 pm
How about some pictures of the spots you need to repair?
Scratches is a broad term so without more exacting information (pictures) it is hard to give you a "reasonable" approach to getting your car's paint job finished out properly.

As for Cut and Buff procedures you should use the search function and do lots of reading. This question gets asked all the time.
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 1:14 am
Just a tip on taping after you cleared... Use cheap tape (weaker adhesive) and rub in on your blue jeans and get some lint on it. This will allow it to cover without sticking too good.

And Yes... I agree with seeing some pictures.



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:21 am
Thanks guys for the reply, everything that you have said makes sense, I will post some pictures tomorrow because i'm at work and I left my camera at home, I do have pictures of the entire car, but its hard to see the spots. Thanks again.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:50 am
S4020270.JPG
testing if picture will come up.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:07 am
Well I figure how to post pictures so here are the pictures I said I was going to post. Thanks again for your help
S4020277.JPG
Here is where I scratch it when I was putting it back together.
Attachments
S4020272.JPG
Here is where I scratch it when I was putting it back together.
S4020271.JPG
Here is where I scratch it when I was putting it back together.
S4020270.JPG
Here is where I scratch it when I was putting it back together.
S4020269.JPG
here is where I peeled off the clear coat when I took of the tape.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:11 pm
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but some of those spots indicate a poor adhesion problem.
Tell us what steps you took in detail prior to spraying color and clear. Include sandpaper grit selection and paint product names, how long you let each coat flash, etc.
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:42 pm
Well this has been my project for over 2 years now I would prepare an area and than put some primer on it, work on another area and prime it finally when I got all the car primed I wet sanded it 500 grit and primed it again. When I put on the base coat I washed the car real good then I put on the base coat let the base coat sit for a week or so then I would wet sand it down with 500 grit. I shoot 3 base coats on it and the material that I used was midnight blue from www.PaintForCars.com I purchased the
Midnight Blue Urethane Basecoat Clear Coat Kit
Featuring 5 Star Clear Coat. I don't know how good this product is, it can be good but my work might not, don't know just trying to learn as I go. Well I did sand down the parts before the clear with 500 grit and shoot it with base than waited 12 hrs before I actually shoot the clear, waited around 20 min to shoot another clear. Then I waited around 16 hrs before I started to install the parts back together, maybe this was the mistake, should I have waited longer? Well this is where i'm at, the clear came with a medium activator, I did follow the directions and mixed it like the instructions said. The temp when I shoot both the base and clear was around 70-75. What I was planning on doing is sanding just the areas that are scratched and taping the areas that i don't want to be painted and reshot with base then reshot with clear including the are where the tape took off the clear. If this is correct please let me know and if not also let me know. Thanks very much for you help, I will eventually get it, Thanks again.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:44 pm
Just forgot to mention that every spot that the paint came off I either open on part of the car and it rubbed against another part with out me knowing it. Well thanks again
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