Wet sand Clear coat

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:59 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Sanding:
First you block sand the clear to get it flat as stated earlier. What grit depends upon how much orange peel and urethane wave you have.
Next you begin refining the scratches but sanding with a finer grit until all the previous grit scratches are gone. So if you started with 1000 you follow that with 1500 until all the 1000 grit scratches are gone. You repeat the process with the next higher grit, in our example 2000) until all the 1500 grit scratches are gone. Some guys go all the way to 3000 grit during this stage to make buffing very easy.

Buffing:
Buffing compounds can be used to remove scratches left behind by sanding but are nowhere near as effective as sanding. Some claim to remove 1000 grit scratches but the amount of time and material it takes makes it a much better option to wet sand with a finer grit.
Once you have the last of the 2000 grit scratches removed with your buffing compound you begin the process of refining those scratches left from the compound by using progressively finer compounds and polishes.
The swirl removers are the least aggressive and combined with a non-cutting pad to take reduce the last of the finest scratches visible to the naked eye.


Awesome!!! Thanks!!!...... I ask because I like to know what im doing and why im doing it, not just do it because is previously stated like correct

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:08 am
Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:20 pm
58mark wrote:Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.



from what I know you can do it the next day... you can still wetsand after a week the clear coat. for buffing is the wool pad at no more than 2k rpm( memory little blury lol) with the robbing compound then the polish with foam pad and then the glaze.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:30 pm
58mark wrote:Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.



All depends on the clear. I use SPI clear now. I painted dad's car with the Universal Clear. You can buff it a year later just fine. I'm now painting a Cougar with SPI Euro Clear. It say's that it's best to buff within 10 days. So it really does depend on the clear you are using.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:42 pm
GregStith wrote:
58mark wrote:Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.



All depends on the clear. I use SPI clear now. I painted dad's car with the Universal Clear. You can buff it a year later just fine. I'm now painting a Cougar with SPI Euro Clear. It say's that it's best to buff within 10 days. So it really does depend on the clear you are using.


i'm going to use kirker black diamond, and their data sheet doesn't give those kind of details. I guess I'll have to call them

http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/PDFS/TD ... arcoat.pdf



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:41 pm
how can I put this....

When i look at my car I can see the image reflexion with some distortion... is that what orange peel is?

something like this
Image


just hit it with some 2000grit/wet and got a mirror finish... but is that always going to happen when you clear coat?

ps: did one test before with 1500 then 2000 and was little hard/more time to remove the scratches. Now did it only with the 2000 grit and was MUCH better

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:15 pm
Yes that is orange peel mixed with some dust particles.
How about an after picture showing your mirror finish?
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:37 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Yes that is orange peel mixed with some dust particles.
How about an after picture showing your mirror finish?


Well that was only a random pic from the web but dont worry tomorrow I'll post some pics of the car



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:55 am
here you go!
Attachments
WP_000315.jpg
here is the fender wetsanded and then buffed
Photo_A0B3D3C4-3138-CCEC-9B8E-6F3DDDA53D3B.jpg
you can see that the fender doesnt have it... thats were I did the test
Last edited by marchese_alexander on Tue Mar 22, 2011 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 3:30 pm
marchese_alexander wrote:here you go!


you can see that the fender doesnt have it... thats were I did the test
Image


here is the fender wetsanded and then buffed
Image


your pictures didn't load. perhaps instead of directly linking them follow chris' post?

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14600

can't wait to see them :)
++--Tim--++
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