AutoBody101.com

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Sanding:
First you block sand the clear to get it flat as stated earlier. What grit depends upon how much orange peel and urethane wave you have.
Next you begin refining the scratches but sanding with a finer grit until all the previous grit scratches are gone. So if you started with 1000 you follow that with 1500 until all the 1000 grit scratches are gone. You repeat the process with the next higher grit, in our example 2000) until all the 1500 grit scratches are gone. Some guys go all the way to 3000 grit during this stage to make buffing very easy.

Buffing:
Buffing compounds can be used to remove scratches left behind by sanding but are nowhere near as effective as sanding. Some claim to remove 1000 grit scratches but the amount of time and material it takes makes it a much better option to wet sand with a finer grit.
Once you have the last of the 2000 grit scratches removed with your buffing compound you begin the process of refining those scratches left from the compound by using progressively finer compounds and polishes.
The swirl removers are the least aggressive and combined with a non-cutting pad to take reduce the last of the finest scratches visible to the naked eye.

58mark wrote:Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.

58mark wrote:Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.

GregStith wrote:

58mark wrote:Two questions related to this topic

Whats the normal time table for cutting amd buffing clear? Most data sheets say around 48 hours, but at what point is the paint so cured that it's really difficult? A week? A month? Never?

Also, I was planning on using a 3m wool pad with my makita buffer for the clear. Is that correct? Should I be using waffle pads for clear? For lacquer, I used waffle pads with squirl remover as the last stage.

All depends on the clear. I use ********** clear now. I painted dad's car with the Universal Clear. You can buff it a year later just fine. I'm now painting a Cougar with ********** Euro Clear. It say's that it's best to buff within 10 days. So it really does depend on the clear you are using.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Yes that is orange peel mixed with some dust particles.
How about an after picture showing your mirror finish?

marchese_alexander wrote:here you go!


you can see that the fender doesnt have it... thats were I did the test

here is the fender wetsanded and then buffed