You asked,,"Why do not like them anymore, or prefer to use the foam over old style wool or synthetic wool"

With the newer compounds and finer grit sand papers, the wool pad is not needed any more for new paint. Its to aggressive and most of the time leaves swirl marks.

The pad set I have consists of a wool pad, followed by a rough yellow foam pad, followed by a fine foam pad. Can I just use the 3M rubbing compound with the yellow pad followed by the black pad with the ultrafine compound?

I am also wondering how to sand next to edges, so that I can get rid of all the frog eyes and buff so the entire panel looks the same.

You don't want to sand right on the edge of the panel. The clear is thin in that area and you can do damage in a real hurry if you are not careful. Most people only notice the orange peel on wide open areas like a door, hood, etc....not along the edges. I sand everything within about 3/4 - 1" of the edge and let the buffer do the work from that point to blend the "smooth" clear into the untouched clear.

Here's a quick rundown of what I do:
All stages with wet paper/pad.
P1000 grit to level any heavy peel, trash, etc.
P1500 to get rid of the P1000 marks.
P2000 grit by hand or using a 2000 grit Abralon pad on my DA with Hook-It type backing plate mounted.

3M Super Duty or Diamond Cut 2.0 depending on how many scratches I'm removing.
I use this on an Orange Lake County pad
Followed by Medium Cut on a white pad
Followed by Presta Chroma Swirl Remover on a Black pad

WOW!

Today i cut with 1500. and used 3ms perfect it II and came out like glass on black with blue foam pad.

I cant believe it,,,somebody listened to me..........

Dont take long to get the job done,,does it Deitymotorsports...

no not at all. i've tried all the other stuff. i use three main compounds. and they are all 3m. heavy duty, when the finish does not have to be show car quality and there little orange peel in the clear, if i'm cutting for a very nice finish. i use 1500 for the most part and perfect it II and then a glaze. On average my cars have at least 3 coats of clear. the cheap jobs, are about 2. 1500 does not take long to cut. it's safer for me and even if there is still some minor imperfections in the clear after i cut, the compound takes care of the rest. But still technically two steps, or just one, if its a cheaper quick paint job.

I used to use most of the 3m line, especially perfect it. And yah they are good, i especially like the superduty for course cutting/buffing.
Yet, i have found with using most of their polishes they will sling and dust so much.

What i have switched to now is the menzerna line and i could not be happier. The lubricity and polishing oils work so well giving me a very safe travel & breakdown period with the rotary.

Another product similiar to menzerna is the HD UNO v4.

OldDupontGuy, Could you tell me the Dewalt grinder you use (model #) and the 3m hook-it blue and gray pads. What compounds do you use. I'm going to use on a Centari SS solid white paint after wet sanding with 1500. I'm in the process of sanding with 1000 grit.. I don't know the equipment I need to finish the buff. On my work truck I used a HF grinder with the wood pad and 3m super duty compound. Boy you are correct about the swirl marks. Thanks.

I would have to go look at the numbers....

Tell me about sanding the car with 1000. Are you talking about "before" you apply the Centari? If so, thats to fine for A/Enamel.

Why not just use BC/CC?