How to achieve that mirror shine?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:24 pm
I shot two black panels (Utech bc/cc). The first is untouched after spraying. The second went through the Norton Liquid Ice system, but I'm not satisfied with the results.

Here is the Norton Procedure I followed:
1) 1500 dry on r/o
2) 3000 wet on r/o
3) #1 wool pad with compound (2 passes)
4) #2 blue pad with compound (2 passes)
5) #3 white pad with compound (2 passes)

After the previous steps, I went over it twice with race glaze by hand as well.

I can still see a few sander marks, it still looks hazy, and the gloss that was there before the buffing is gone. I ordered the Norton fine machine glaze which goes along with the system to try this weekend. Norton recommends it for darker vehicles so I thought I would give it a try.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:26 pm
I believe you when you say you aren't happy with it -- but man it looks good to me. Tough to tell maybe, from the photo.

1500 to 3000 might have been too much of a jump, and almost sounds like the compound might be coarser grit than the 3000 -- but I'm not familiar with that Norton system so you probably know better about it than I do.

If the panel is flat now and you just have some lingering haze, the final polish ought to take care of it.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 8:28 pm
It does look nice but I can see it does lack the clarity you are wanting.
Try looking at it in direct sunlight and see if you can get a better idea of the scratches that are still present and making it appear hazy.
I am not familiar with the Norton system either so can't be much help there.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 8:49 pm
They do have an extra step for dark colors

BEST PRACTICE FOR DARK VEHICLES
Use Ultra-Fine Machine Glaze for a totally swirl free, high-gloss finish where
the absolute best finish is required. Use on its own for fine scratch removal,
or as Step 3 in place of Liquid Ice Extra-Cut. Be sure to keep a thin wet film
on the surface for several passes.

http://www.nortonautomotive.com/uploade ... e-7895.pdf

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:18 pm
You say you did 2 passes with each stage.
Why ? Surely you would keep going over it with your coarse compund until all the flatting marks have gone before you jump to a finer compund/glaze.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:50 pm
Judging from the panel, I think it looks excellent. But I'm not the one that has to live with it. If you are not happy, I would try the next step in the Norton system for the heck of it, but I doubt that you will be any happier with the results.


If you are still not pleased afterwards, I would sand it with some 2000 grit wet, then go to the 3000 and buff it again. The more thoroughly you sand it, the easier the buffing will be. We add a bit of soap to the water to help stop the paper from binding against the painted surface. I agree that it is too much of a jump from 1500 dry to 3000 wet; in fact we never scuff anything dry on a freshly painted car as it tends to be too agressive. Additionally, you likely did not make enough passes with the wool pad or use enough pressure to get out the imperfections the first time you attempted it. It is best to do it slowly and pay very close attention to the progress of the surface you are buffing. Also, depending on how long the clear has been on the vehicle, it may have hardened enough to make buffing very difficult. We try to get the wetsanding and buffing done within 24-48 hours after shooting the clear, but this obviously depends on the clear. Good luck.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:10 am
what type of clear again? and what does the tech sheet say on drytime or sanding time?
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:14 am
You said,,"3) #1 wool pad with compound (2 passes)
4) #2 blue pad with compound (2 passes)
5) #3 white pad with compound (2 passes)

When you say "Passes" what are you talking about? Also,,,why the wool pad over the 3000 grit?
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:18 pm
I have to agree with an earlier comment dont stop with the wool pad and heavy cut compound until all of the scratches are out. Other wise you will get shiny scratches. work only about a foot and a half area with a LOT of compound remember that is what does the cutting not the heat or pressure.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 4:56 pm
How in the world are you gonna have scratches after you sand with 3000 grit paper and then buff with a wool pad?

It sounds like he is not using enough compound, or in a big hurry with the buffer.................

I sand with 1200, then buff with a blue or gray foam pad. You cant get in a hurry.

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