Buffing out my truck painted black, base/clear, with Nason 2k.

I ask the advise of this forum, and was told to use the Meguiars 105, and 205 compounds, which I did, and was amazed.

Now after using these what else is needed.

I know I need a swirl remover, and I would like to stay with Meguiars on this so would the Solo cut and polish #86 work ok for this? {I watched a youtube vid, and the guy used this one a black vehicle to get the swirls out}

Then do I need a glaze, and which one?

Sorry for the questions, but I looked back over 20 pages without finding what I needed, and did a net search, and youtube search and came up with nothing {well it wasn't generalized enough}

are there swirls after the 205? if not and ya like the results, go to either a glaze, wax or sealant, depending on age of paint. fresh paint( within 90 days)= megs show car glaze #7. cured paint or paint correction= either megs yellow wax #26 or megs #21 synthetic sealant. the sealant lasts a lot longer than the wax, but some people prefer wax when i detail.

What ever you do DONT use Zymol,,,the guys on here go crazy..........

Yes there were swirl marks after the 205.

After doing quite a bit of reading on this forum it looks like the swirl's are from using a wool pad with the 105.

yup, that'll happen with a wool pad. after initial cut with a rotary, wool pad and 105, i switch to a DA an orange lake country pad and 105, then on to the 205 with an orange pad and the da. awesome results.

tomsteve wrote:yup, that'll happen with a wool pad. after initial cut with a rotary, wool pad and 105, i switch to a DA an orange lake country pad and 105, then on to the 205 with an orange pad and the da. awesome results.

Tom, thanks, can I still use the rotory buffer as I don't have a DA. I do have a speed controller for the buffer {I had to buy a speed controller as the torque would almost twist your arm off, not to mention the paint job}.

Also, I just bought these pads.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x7-Waffle-BUFF ... 2a1c25a639

yes, it is possible. i would suggest testing with a finishing pad and low speed. a little 205 goes a long way.. please let us know how those pads work and what the quality of them is.

tomsteve wrote:yes, it is possible. i would suggest testing with a finishing pad and low speed. a little 205 goes a long way.. please let us know how those pads work and what the quality of them is.

Will do, and thanks again.

Good advice from Tom. I would add that you should *always* follow rotary/wool/m105 with rotary/foam pad/m105 (orange is a good choice). That will remove the micro-marring left by the rotary and wool pad. In fact, after the m105 on the foam pad step, the paint should be swirl free. You will likely still have holograms from the rotary though.

You can try to finesse the paint with the rotary and M205 on a soft foam pad, but you will save yourself alot of time and trouble by investing in a good DA like the Porter Cable 7424 XP. It's difficult to get a hologram free with a rotary even for pros. We always finish up with DA and a soft foam pad or a microfiber polishing pad and M205.

Good luck

when i started using the twins, i only had the 7424. i would get some amazing results, but it was time consuming and i used a lot of product. then i invested in a rotary. one pass with that, a wool pad, and the 105, then on to the da with 105 and an orange pad, then on to 205 and an orange pad. the time it took and the amount of product used were both cut way down.
i detailed a blazer about 1o days ago. it was rather cool out. about 55 degrees when i started. kept the shop temp cool as it was gonna warm up. i noticed the cooler temp added a lot more working time with the 105.