circle scratches on the clear after using da

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 6:56 pm
Location: southern Illinois
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 3:23 pm
I am using a palm sander with a 3/32 orbit with a purple backing pad(3m part number 05778) and a interface pad (05777). I have some bad orange peel so I started with 1000g hookit discs and then went over it with 1500g.

I tried it wet and got the sanding scratches and then I tried it dry and still I am getting the sanding scraches. when I was doing it wet I would go over a 2ft by 2ft area and as soon as the area turned gray with sanding grit I would squeegee the area off and spray the bottom of the sandpaper with a spray bottle. when I did it dry I would use a rag to wipe the sanding residue off the panel and the sandpaper after a few seconds of sanding

I am trying to get a good finish but the scratches can be seen if a floresent light reflects in the paint

any help would be greatly appreciated

also I am using perfect-it number 1 rubbing compound and I have also tried super duty compound but that seems to leave scratches on the clear. the clear I used was ********** universal
in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 4273
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:43 pm
Location: Charleston,SC
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 3:57 pm
How much compound are you using in a 2' area? Are you moving the buffer 1 foot every seven seconds?
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


Capt Rick Hiott.
www.reelfishhead.com

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 6:56 pm
Location: southern Illinois
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:22 pm
I am affraid that if I move that slowly I will burn through the edges

you can only see the scratches at an angle in the reflection of a floresent light

I know I am bieng picky but I want it as close to perfect as possible

I could not see any of the scratches out in the sunlight
in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 4273
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:43 pm
Location: Charleston,SC
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:38 pm
That is the travel rate of your buffer. You should be using more compound........

Ive got a post on here somewhere about buffing a hood. You should check it out.
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


Capt Rick Hiott.
www.reelfishhead.com



Fully Engaged
Posts: 310
Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 3:49 pm
Location: Spartanburg, SC
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:06 pm
First of all DO NOT use super duty on ********** universal. Universal is a softer clear and superduty is just way to coarse a compound.

2nd are you using a wool or foam buffing pad?

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3110
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:52 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:44 pm
I put super duty on the shelf yrs ago. It is aggressive. Good on hard clear. But I like buffing while it is still soft.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 9878
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:45 pm
Here's an old link back when I was trying to get the R/T buffed out: viewtopic.php?t=10555&highlight=buffathon
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 4273
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:43 pm
Location: Charleston,SC
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:09 pm
I don't use anything BUT Super Duty. I have used it on every clear Ive ever sprayed with no problems at all.
Its a great compound if you know how to use it...Its also a lot faster than the VERY expensive 3 step system they sell now......
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


Capt Rick Hiott.
www.reelfishhead.com

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 6:56 pm
Location: southern Illinois
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:35 am
I have been using foam pads and the 3m 3 step process but I just cannot get rid of the little scratches left behind by the da

should I be using a wool pad and some of that meguires 105. also could I have been waiting too long to clean my panel and my sandpaper and getting deep scratches from the sanding residue.

I am at a loss here because I usually just wetsand by hand with 1500 and never had any of these problems before

what would you guys do at this time to get the scratches out :worthy:
in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 9878
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:56 am
Hopefully your scratches are 1500 grit or less and preferably 2000 or less.
Using a rotary buffer and keeping rpms in the 1200 range to start out.
Megs 105 and a twisted wool pad. Work a small (18" x 18") area until scratches are no longer visible.
Megs 205 on a Lake Country CCS White pad will refine the finish.
Menzerna 85RD on a Lake Country CCS gray/black pad for polishing.
Be sure the car is clean before you start, be sure to wipe off any remaining compound with a Microfiber towel before moving to the next step.

********** universal clear is meant for show cars and is a softer clear that buffs quite easily. With the above steps it should be like glass on top of paint when done.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
Next

Return to Cut, Buff, Polish & Detail

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 59 guests