circle scratches on the clear after using da

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 3:39 pm
barry suggested that I wet sand it with 1500 or 2000 by hand with a soft block

I was kind of sceptical of the meg 105 bieng able to cut as well as the super duty that I tried. not only did it not get all the scratches out but it was so aggresive with the ********** clear it left scraches of its own

I am gonna go ahead and scuff it lightly with 2000 and buff it with the 3m products that I already have but when I run low I plan on trying the 105
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 10:41 pm
jamon8 wrote:barry suggested that I wet sand it with 1500 or 2000 by hand with a soft block

I was kind of sceptical of the meg 105 bieng able to cut as well as the super duty that I tried. not only did it not get all the scratches out but it was so aggresive with the ********** clear it left scraches of its own

I am gonna go ahead and scuff it lightly with 2000 and buff it with the 3m products that I already have but when I run low I plan on trying the 105


If you get out the 2000 don't get on it lightly. Stay off the edges and get on it. I finish in 1500 or 2000 then trizac3000. Trizac cuts compound/polish time so big its not even funny, I cut, compounded, and polished the side of a black Lincoln today in less than two hrs. That is sanding a 3 inch hanger (1000, 1200, then 2000). I denibbed the rest with 2000 then trizac.
I took my time.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:24 am
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Thise vette has ********** Universal on it. Started with 800 wet to 2000 wet and finished with with 3000 trizact. 3m 06085 Prefect-It compound on a 3m white foam pad, followed by meguiars #9 swirl remover on a black foam pad.

When you use a da to cut, you need to be running it at low speeds so you aren't producing any heat which causes the "ball-ups" to form. Constantly keep the pad clean. When you are wiping buffing residue off a panel, you should be using soft passes. Any hard pressure, even from a microfiber, will put light surface scratches in it.

********** has a Euro clear, 5000, that you might want to try on another project. It is a harder clear, and seems like it would suit you better. After about 3-4 days it will become tougher to cut/buff...and doesn't scratch as easily.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 3:47 pm
man that corvette looks really nice

I think I had the da going a little fast but on the panels that I did it slow I still got some scratches

I really think that 2000 is gonna put it where I want to be

I am just really worried about breaking through the clear and having to respray

I had some really bad orange peel and had to sand with the 1000 grit for a while but I did lay down 4 wet coats
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 9:46 pm
4 coats huh? If you stay off the edges and lines you will be ok.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 11:04 pm
I am going tommarro and finding someone to order me in some meg 105

nothing is cutting through the pigtails and I am getting to the point where I am just going to have to live with the best that I can do. if someone notices these small scratches under the right lighting then so be it.

even the 1500 scratches that I went over the edges by hand are not coming out and I can see the 2000 scratches as well. everything that touches this clear is showing in the right angle with light.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:57 am
All of the pigtails should be sanded out before you even start buffing.You should have one grit scratch in your paint before buffing and that would be the last grit you decide to use. If you start with 1500, unless you trizac 3000 wet,then they need to be removed with 2000. If you want easier and much quicker buffing use trizac 3000 wet to quickly remove 1500 or 2000.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:24 am
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The idea in using different grits is to be sure to get all the previous grit scratches out before you move on to the next step. Thus if you start with 1000 and then jump to 1500 you keep sanding until ALL the 1000 scratches are gone. Pigtails can be more like 400 grit scratches depending on how bad they are. I have found that spinning the DA at slower rpms eliminates the pigtail problem for the most part. Also, when wetsanding you have to be careful not to trap any dirt under your paper that can cause deep scratches. Sometimes this dirt is in the clear coat and you dislodge it when sanding.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:10 pm
I finally went to the paint store and got them to look up the meg 105 and order it for me. I will be here thursday. yeah!!!!

I am going to buff it out and any spot that still has the pigtails I will go over them with 2000 grit.

I wish I had enough clear to go with the trizac 3000 but I am worried about cutting through and having to repaint

I know I sound like a broken record but I am trying to save this paint job
in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:01 pm
well I got through the first round with the meg 105 and a good wool pad. it cut through the scratches and only in a few spots can you see the pigtails if you look in the right light. here are a few pics after I got done and washed her up a bit

the first pic is a single sun ray hitting the pearl.
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in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"
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