do I want an electric buffer or can I use an air sander as a buffer?
do I want/need dual action (novice painter) for acrylic base/clear work or is a rotary one fine?
thanks
I am trying to keep the price reasonable too
Also located in aus so any relevant to aus information would be greatly appreciated!
I see cheap buffing pad kits on ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Inch-Buffi ... 19e0fd881f
are these a bad idea?
or do I really only need cutting compound, a wool buffing pad and then a polish? or do I need to do the stepwise wool to foam to fine foam ?
oh hey I found another thread further down - sily me sorry! but any further advice would be good
choice of buffer + buffing pads
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Variable speed electric with soft start motor, not dual action.
Don't cheap out on pads...you want height quality twisted wool for fast/medium cutting, then finish polish with a waffle foam pad...that's just the way I do it, there are more buffing processes and systems than you can shake a stick at... |
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hey champ, good to see another aussie on here!!
variable speed buffers can be had pretty cheap, I have had a millers falls item for over 10yrs and it still goes, they can be had now for around $120, or supercheap have black and decker items for around $99, sometimes on special for $79, or a ROK item can be had for around $79 too, I use the velocity dble sided waffle pads for general buffing, they have a white side and a black side, white if for cutting and black for a machine glaze, they are around $30 from supercheap but make sure you use the little adapter that comes with them, i haven't had any probs with them, keep them in a nice big bag when not using them!! a nice tip when your buffing edges, make sure the buffing pad spins off the edge, not back onto the edge, for example if doing the front edge of drivers door (aussie rhd car!!), use the top of the pad so it is spinning off the edge of the panel, not the bottom of the pad as it would be spinning back onto the panel, this will help save the pad and not wreck the edge of the paint on the panel. hope that makes sense krem |
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Hey guys thanks for your replies
I thought there was some risk in people with no experience using rotary buffers instead of DA? If you're careful is it pretty hard to burn through the paint with a rotary? I have watched a number of videos on cutting/buffing etc so I guess I have some background knowledge lol |
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I have only burned thru twice I think, lol, its not hard to do if your not payin attention, just stay off the edges and sharp bodylines, I only use slow rpm, around 1000, don't push too hard, just the weight of the buffer is usually enough, just do a small section at a time, I generally do around 400mm x 400mm sections at a time, easy does it, I usually use a 3m cutting compound but this time I have a septone product, think its called superior cutting compound or similar,
if you get a variable speed item, just set it on the slowest rpm setting, around 400 - 600 rpm I think and take it easy, you will get the hang of it, and like I said on in the above post, make sure the pad spins off the panel or body line, NOT back onto it, you can do all sorts of damage!! don't laugh bout watching youtube mate, lol, I learned by watchin American hotrod, rags to riches, other dvd's, reading the same books a million times and asking heaps of questions, I still do all the above, no matter how dumb the q might sound, its not that dumb if you need to ask it, it could cost a lot of $$ if your not sure!! krem |
Hey mate! I have a Supercheap one in the shop. It's junk. I'd give it away if I could find someone to take it. Also have a Makita which has done 2-3 cars/day for the last 6 years and I've only had to replace a frayed cord. Soft start and locks on so you can move your hands about a bit for different angles on the panels. Quiet and not too heavy.
Also have a Ryobi which started life as an 8" variable speed grinder. It's been trouble free too - just have to get used to the straight, rather than "D", handle at the front. Was much cheaper than the Makita which are still around $400. I use Contour pads and don't have any complaints. They have a good range from very hard to super soft for finishing. Aussie made. Good pads don't cost a lot more than bad pads and last much longer so cheaper in the long run. Tried the self destructing ones....not worth it. Look after them and they'll last well as well as give you good results. 6-6.5" pads are the go. Bigger for the waffle. For acrylic I'd use a rotary for cutting - it does tend to dry pretty hard but buffs up well. We use DAs for final finishing work but with practice a rotary with big waffle pad will go pretty close. Krem's on the money about technique and speed. Slow and easy - takes a little longer but much safer. Chris
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Hey thanks guys
what makes the supercheap one junk? doesnt have good enough speed control etc? I am really on a budget to do these restos of classic motos/scooters, and so I was hoping to find a buffer in the $100 range? where can I find contour pads, is a wool (cutt), coarse foam (swirl remover) and fine foam (polish?) enough stages for the average job? |
The Supercheap one? Sounds like it's about to self destruct - gearbox noise. Heavy. Can't turn on and lock on (have to keep finger on trigger with REALLY strong spring), won't maintain the same speed, slows down when you apply any pressure, uncomfortable to hold......it's yours if you want to come and pick it up. I'll end up chucking it in the bin.
I buy Contour pads from Autosmart, but most paint supply places should have them. Chris
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Haha how much would it cost to post to victoria lol ? like $30-$40 tops? - prob not worth your time lol... ya don't live near a posty do you?
Sounds like a number of issues with it that would definitely get to someone who uses buffers for hours a day! ok good to know about the pads, I'll hunt around, so which colours/grades do you recommend, wool obviously, then a medium foam, and fine foam? cheers Chris Ed |
If you want it, it's yours. I can put it on E-go. They're pretty reasonable. PM me if interested. Chris
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