Hello guys, I see lots of questions about tools and parts, but not so much about the compounds.
I looking to step up to something that cuts pretty good. I have a PC and I normally use a wool pad (tbh I think its suppose to be foam/wool, but just seems like wool to me) when working out 1500 grit marks, but the stuff I have been using, 3m rubbing compound and or Adams swirl and haze, will get the job done, after a while. Sometimes a long while, but I think that stuff is mostly for making good paint look better. I'm looking for something that works a little faster at correcting/cutting, ever more so since I'm on a PC. (or should I switch to a high speed? or something)
Any suggestions. When I try to look at the compounds it gets a little overwhelming, because of so many options, and I don't want to just keep buying stuff that is equal to what I have. Is M105 what I want? I'm also open to any pad options you may have.
Thanks!
What buffing compound?
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You would get more of an increase in cutting power by moving to a rotary like a DeWalt or Makita starting with a twisted wool pad. A PC is good for paint correction, scratch refinement, detail, etc., but a rotary is burnishing and changing the surface profile much more aggressively especially in those initial stages right after sanding that clear.
3M, Meguiars, Norton, Evercoat's Body Magic, System One, Wizards, etc., all have pro lines of compounds that work equally well. I think it is more of a personal preference thing with compounds. A place that has some pretty good products, tips, etc. is over at Auto Geek. Here's a page over there on rotaries pros, cons, and usage... http://www.autogeek.net/buffer-polisher.html Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Thanks for the info. I went out and bought some 105 today... Then spent idk like 3 hours working the roof of my car. I don't know if it will last long, but hey, gave me something to try, and I found out 105 seems to take out 1500 really fast. I ended up taking way longer then I wanted... I think my wool was a little wet and that did me in, I only used a little product, and it just stuck right to the 1500 and dried up. My wool just clumped up all the time, so I had to keep cleaning it so on and so forth. I seem to have this problem a lot.
I'm going to look into getting some twisted wool, but I have to order it, no one local had it in hook and loop. Anyways... Wet sanded with 1500, M105 with a wool/pad, swirl/haze (white pad), polish (same white pad), wax (black pad). |
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if yer working on a hot surface, or out in the sun yer gonna have problems with the m105 or any product for that matter. i keep a spray bottle with distilled water in it handy for when the temps are higher( but still work under a roof). a lil spray of water helps, but not on a hot surface.
good work,though!! |
Megs 105 is great and their newer 100 is a bit better. The 205 is the second step for polishing.
Hit it with a wool pad or foam cutting pad and the Megs 100 or 105 and then the second step with a powerful DA like a Flex or a Rupes Bigfoot and the Megs 205 with a foam polishing pad. The second step will remove the haze and holograms from the first step. Regarding DA polishers, I am split on my opinion. The Flex is a forced rotation and will not stop turning even with heavy downward pressure and the Rupes Bigfoot has a much larger 21mm throw but will stop rotating if pressed hard. Porter Cables are too weak and a waste of time but don't throw it away. They are still useful for polishing small tight areas of paint using a small pad and shampooing carpets and upholstery with the available brushes. FWIW, for polishing, look into the microfiber polishing pads. Often considered only for paint correction, they really clean up things after compounding. |
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