Hi all (yes I have searched and read all the info on the site. BUT there is lots of conflicting info . . who would have thought!) Any way here is what we are working on. 1966 Mustang painted with HOK products.

What we have done: The car was painted in August of 2013. After body work it was finished high-fill KD 2000 & 3000 epoxy and sanded down to 320 finish. First 3 coats of KS-11 Black sealer after flash time followed with 3 coats of f-65 mini fireball flake. (yes too heavy) Then 3 coats of UC35 clear and let dry overnight. Came in the next morning and got TOO aggressive and sander it to the flake (it started to turn silver) So we leveled it out and re-shot the flake and 3 coats of clear! The NEXT morning we CAREFULLY sanded it with LIGHT 320 and maroon pads to give it tooth. AIR / TACK clean and then shot 3 coats of UK03 Wild cherry Candy Then 6 RATHER HEAVY coats of UC35 clear. We didn't want to cut through the clear getting it smooth due to the "RUFF" flake. Then it was sanded with 1200 on a DA. Followed with 3M cutting compound on a wool pad, followed by 3M ultra fine machine polish (06068) foam pad. I then worked with a buffer to cut and polish out some haze, scratches and swirl. Finished it with Menzerna SF 4500 Ultra-finish polish using a blue foam pad. That brings us to where we are today!

NOW the question . . . needless to say I have some urethane wave. It's nice and shiny and looks great EXCEPT when you look at it at an oblique angle . . . then you can see the waves in the reflection. From reading "they" say to cut it with 400 then work up and re-cut and buff. Do I need to start (hand with a solid wood block) at 400 then 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 2000 then cut with Meg's 105 with a wool pad then 205 on a foam pad then Menzerna polish? Than sounds like TOO much! I should have lots of clear but don't want to cut through! I will attempt to post a couple of pictures below but it's hard to get a decent picture with all the shine and metal flake. Any advise would be MOST appreciated! Mel

You will get a few different responses on how to proceed.
I like to use the hardwood block and in this case I would try starting with 800 grit. Work no more than a 12" x 12" section at a time and sand to remove any shiny spots. You don't have to press hard, just enough to make good contact.
The trick here is to make sure as you step up to 1000 grit that you get ALL the 800 scratches out. One method is to sand in a 45 degree angle with the 800 and reverse that angle with the 1000 grit. You will see little X marks if the 800 scratches are not totally removed.
Wipe the area with Wax and Grease Remover and look at it closely to make sure you have all the previous grit scratches out.
Once you get to 1200 grit you are basically just refining scratches so a soft pad is fine. Some will go to a DA with 1500 at this point but you need to be careful of pigtails or getting any debris under the pad that will scratch up your clear coat in a hurry.

Take your time and you will get it looking like a piece of glass over the color coat.

Thank you '68 R/T. I appreciate your response. It sounds like a good plan. I plan to wet sand it so it should come out nice. Again many thanks! Mel