Bad orange peel

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:17 pm
I painted a truck in SS urethane dark blue. Two coats 30 days ago. I am starting to finish out the job. I notice really bad orange peel. I tried buffing with 105 Meguiars but that didn't take down the orange peel. I have since started wet sanding a door with 1500. I've spent 30 minutes sanding the door and have knocked down the orange peel 50%. This seems like it's going to be a really long process of wet sanding the whole truck by hand. Is this necessary? Or should I be using a powered sander? I am afraid if I go to a more aggressive sand paper, I won't be able to get the scratches out with buffing.
Need advice....



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:46 pm
I have started out with 800 grit and progressively worked it to 3000 and buffed plenty of times. But its really going to depend on how much paint you have on it and how bad the peel is. I have also have flat sanded with 600 and put on two more coats of paint just cause it was so much faster/easier than buffing your guts out.

Chuck



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:43 pm
you can't buff out orange peel....only wet sanding and buff will bring it flat. It can take hours and hours because you have to buff out the cloudyness which is usually at least 3-4+ buffing over everything(if you finish with 3000 grit its much easier but still a pain), then you have to water test it to make sure it doesn't cloud back up, and you generally will be slinging all over so cover crevices. then you will have to get out the buffing swirls from the compound which is more or less polishing a lot of times with a different pad(don't ever cross contaminate). some people leave the streaking in it where they don't care about the shine streaks all over after buffing, very noticeable tho.

look into Trizac pads by 3m. they're expensive tho. Norton makes them as well, cheaper with more quantity. get 1500 box and 3000 box. Get DA with soft pad hookit1. these are meant to be water sanded but very easy to use because they are such light grit and foamy pads. again slinging wet sanded clear isn't pretty either. much easier to buff after that.

to deter orange peel try using a slower activator or all over clear. it won't dry so fast which can create orange peel. also obviously your coats will cause orange peel if you're laying real heavy and a lot of coats of clear. also prep sanding if you don't bring the initial clear down a bit...key is trying to match it to the adjacent orange peel clear look and sort of having to prep sand where you're a bit flatter than the adjacent clear look. can see it easy if you're dry sanding.

If its a whole panel i'll oftentimes respray it after sanding down everything pretty close to flat. way too much work buffing/polishing IMO. edges can look bad since you have to leave the orange peel near places where your buffer can't reach.

Also do it in the shade because once that compound dries and hardens it can be near impossible trying to get it out especially if u didn't cover the crevices. thats actually one of the worst things.



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:09 am
I am looking into the Mirka/Aabralon pads. They don't have a 1500 grit though. They jump from 1000 to 2000 to 3000. So would you recommend I get 1000 and 3000? Also, I am not sure what attachment I need for my DA to work with these? Would the soft pad hookit work?
thanks.

smokeee wrote:you can't buff out orange peel....only wet sanding and buff will bring it flat. It can take hours and hours because you have to buff out the cloudyness which is usually at least 3-4+ buffing over everything(if you finish with 3000 grit its much easier but still a pain), then you have to water test it to make sure it doesn't cloud back up, and you generally will be slinging all over so cover crevices. then you will have to get out the buffing swirls from the compound which is more or less polishing a lot of times with a different pad(don't ever cross contaminate). some people leave the streaking in it where they don't care about the shine streaks all over after buffing, very noticeable tho.

look into Trizac pads by 3m. they're expensive tho. Norton makes them as well, cheaper with more quantity. get 1500 box and 3000 box. Get DA with soft pad hookit1. these are meant to be water sanded but very easy to use because they are such light grit and foamy pads. again slinging wet sanded clear isn't pretty either. much easier to buff after that.

to deter orange peel try using a slower activator or all over clear. it won't dry so fast which can create orange peel. also obviously your coats will cause orange peel if you're laying real heavy and a lot of coats of clear. also prep sanding if you don't bring the initial clear down a bit...key is trying to match it to the adjacent orange peel clear look and sort of having to prep sand where you're a bit flatter than the adjacent clear look. can see it easy if you're dry sanding.

If its a whole panel i'll oftentimes respray it after sanding down everything pretty close to flat. way too much work buffing/polishing IMO. edges can look bad since you have to leave the orange peel near places where your buffer can't reach.

Also do it in the shade because once that compound dries and hardens it can be near impossible trying to get it out especially if u didn't cover the crevices. thats actually one of the worst things.



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:21 pm
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