Meguiers Cut and Polish Questions

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 11:25 am
Noob question about Meguier's products. I am Putting together a plan for 1st job on motorcycle and just bought a Griot Garage 3 Inch Random Orbit. Before I spend more money I would like to ask if this would be a good plan.

I plan on purchasing some Meguier's Uinigrit 3 inch 1500 Sanding Discs. 1500 Foam Discs, and 3000 Foam Discs.(I would like to use 3M 5000 Grit Foam Pads but they are just too expensive). I will be Compounding with Meguiers M105 and polishing with M205.

Should this be adequate to cut and polish?
Also, should I follow the polish with some kind of glaze? From reading a description of their purpose they seem like they are meant to bring even a deeper shine than polish.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:45 pm
I use Megs "show car glaze", good stuff. 105 is an excellent compound and will remove 2000 grit scratches with ease. If it were me, I'd be doing 1500, and 2000 wet on a "glazing block", followed by 105 on a wool bonnet and then intermediate foam pad, and then a super fine polishing pad, followed by glaze by hand. Worked for me on a black car anyway... I always colorsand by hand (b/c i don't have the right DA and all the discs), takes alot more time than a machine but it harder to screw it up also....


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:32 pm
Wow, that is gorgeous. Thanks for the advice.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:03 pm
alien444 wrote:Wow, that is gorgeous. Thanks for the advice.



You know what they say... "Those who can't paint just buff the crap out of it!". Ok well, I don't know who says that, but that's what I do... lol :knockout:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 11:12 pm
A Random Orbit buffer is not going to work near as well as a rotary.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 5:37 pm
Well, I know it is slower but I think it is safer for someone with less experience (me). Besides I am not painting a car (yet) it is a bobber I have been building for the last two years. Just got to paint tank, fender, battery box, and oil tank.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:50 pm
Rotary is no problem, just keep the RPMs down and plenty of compound on the piece. I use a Makita, but HF sells a cheapie that would do just fine, they also have wool and foam pads (I use 'em and they work just fine)... this stuff doesnt have to cost tons of cash to get great results....



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:02 pm
I will keep it in mind--maybe Ive been told I cant use one by people who want to sound like they have special skills they I cant handle--know what I mean?



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:17 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:A Random Orbit buffer is not going to work near as well as a rotary.

Not 100% true if you follow the new process gaining traction out there of using microfiber cutting pads primed well with your non-diminishing abrasive compound (i.e. Megs M105, S51 Pro Cut, etc.). IMHO, using a DA with this new process is actually safer, cuts faster and leaves a better finish (which in turn reduces final polishing time).

The only problem with the original poster using this, is that you typically need a more powerful DA like the full 6" Griots DA or the equivalent Porter Cable, Meguiar's or many of the other version out there. You can probably get away with the smaller 3" DA for just a motorcycle tank though.



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 4:47 pm
I'm with Nova on the sanding. I don't think a motorcycle has enough flat surfaces to be using a sanding disk. I'd be afraid of sanding though your clear. And it will happen fast than you can imagine. This project should be wet sanding by hand.
I use a rotary for the wool pad and sometimes the first buff and then switch to a DA to finish up.
I think the 3" will be fine for a project like this. Would want to tackle a car with it. It's good to have one because there are always spots on a car/truck that need a small pad.

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