Just thought I would share my cut and buff process since it is somewhat different than what many people use on this forum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQvi94zdPOU
My Cut and Buff Process (video)
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I still see texture in the paint. You need to cut it flat w/ 600 or possibly 800 first to get the "perfect show car finish"... not knocking your work at all, it looks very respectable. But, 1500 on a softish block isn't going to get it if you want "perfect". The reflection probably looks perfect head on, but I'm seeing texture when looking from an angle
I like the video, and like I said I'm not knocking it. Looks better than factory. |
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Yep, not bad but I'll keep my rotary and as said above the "profile"of the surface needed to be knocked flatter with coarser graded papers. Modern urethanes tend to stack, pool, and even wave as they are built up. Finer grits just follow over the profiles and don't cut them down....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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