colorsanding by machine

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 12:27 pm
Tried it for the first time last week... gotta say I am now a believer. Good stuff!!! I'll be doing all my colorsanding that way from now on.

:rockon:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 4:26 pm
Did this decklid by hand w/ 1200, 1500 and 2000 and then hit it with 3000 on the sander, made buffing so much quicker! I want to get some 2000 discs next time to speed that part of the process up... still not quite comfortable doing the initial cut with a machine, but that part doesn't take long

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 4:51 pm
Yeah, you've still got a lot of guys that don't think you do it "right" with machines and also don't believe that those upper grits make a difference in the ease of polishing. Nice work..... proof in the pic.s.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 6:53 pm
Thankyou very much... after watching some videos today, I think I'll even bump it up to 5000 on the next one... I'm all for more sanding and less buffing :goodjob:

So fun to watch sandpaper bring the shine up like that



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 8:16 pm
The way to get a true dead flat finish, especially black, is by hand blocking the intial cut beginning with 800 or at least 1000. And a 1000 is not going to knock off the highs like 800. I recently shipped a car that I hung all new panels on and the owner could not afford to have me finish it. He finished the blocking himself and had another shop shoot it black and they cut the whole car with Trizac. He then shipped the car back to me and I had to redo the doors and other parts. My hand blocked doors are glass, their machine cut panels were not. That is why black is 25% more than other colors. And why those who know what they are looking at can destroy a black car upon inspection, or any color for than matter. Some people just dont see flaws.

Pictures often don't show how straight a panel or how flat a finish is. Yea, they look good on the screen but get up close and look down them and most are not a pretty sight. Shiny is one thing, straight is another.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:01 pm
I cut this one with 1200 first with a pretty stiff block. Its not SEMA showcar perfect Scott, but good enough for me. Looks flat enough to me. It's a $300 paint job done in the garage LOL :knockout:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:12 pm
The point is to not mislead people, notably the novices, into believing machine sanding is equivalent to hand blocking. Most with no experience read things posted on these sites and believe things because they don't know any better. Its best to post all the facts about different procedures so one will know what to expect.

In a photo, the reflection of a flourescent bulb is lazer staight when the surface is cut flat, as are any other straight objects. This taking into consideration the contour of a panel. This is how PDR guys achieve their goal.

For instance: If a person looks down a door(or panel) in real life and not at it like in the photo of the decklid above, the precision of panel straightness becomes apparent.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:03 pm
You are right sir. My first post kind of implied using a machine all the way through, and I don't agree with that either. First cut should be done on a harder block with more grit. Now that I re-read it I can see that.

Here's my wavy **** car outside...haha :happy:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:55 pm
Recut and buffed my hood with 2000 then 3000 on the DA. I should have started with a fresh piece of 2000 because I got some pigtails that were a pain to buff out, but my wool pad eventually worked them out. Megs 105 w/ wool and foam pads. Turned out pretty good, I think I'll leave it alone now. :knockout:

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