Maybe I will give the blue a shot and just try to match everything. Worst case I just have to respray at some point. I will probably just spray it all one color for now and then when I get some more practice doing custom stuff scuff it up and do something cool.

On that same note..when I sprayed the test panel it took like 4 coats to get good coverage with the blue...the black took 2. Should I get a couple quarts of some just basic blue (just to get a good base) then spray a few quarts of metallic blue? ..or should I just get like 5 quarts of metallic blue and have at it over my sealer?

You are probably going to have to do some more sprayouts for yourself to figure out if you want to do the blue base under the other metallic blue. I can guarantee you that it will look "different" than just going with your current 4 coat blue. Depending on what blue you choose could "subdue" or enhance/brighten it. Color selection is one of the things I agonize most over with projects like this.

I agree. That is why I choose to spray over a single color epoxy as a sealer. So far black has been my preferred color but mainly because I didn't want the colors I was painting to appear too light. I always shoot a minimum of 3 coats of base and more to reach a true color (or at least what I perceive to be a true color).
One of these days I'll invest in some spray out cards.

Luckily I am not looking for a specific color..just want it to look good so I am pretty flexible. I will probably just spray all metallic util I get what I want. Hope 5 quarts will do unreduced.

Mixing 1:1 you will have plenty.

Hmmm..you got me thinking. The jobber guy told me to mix it 3:1 (I used Nason) when the tech sheet says 8:1/2:4 (using activator in the base)...which he did't say anything about. I didn't even look at the mix ratios o the TDS because he told me just use 3:1 because it "works better in this area".....maybe I will try some more test panels with it mixed per the TDS

Even at 3:1 mix ratio 5 quarts should be plenty of paint for that car.
I have learned not to "trust" the sales guy's advice. For all I know they have never actually painted a car and even if they painted 20 cars it wouldn't mean they had done it right.

Yeah, 5 quarts should do that car.... Just keep something in mind you said there. I know you aren't "critically" trying to match a color here but do keep very specific notes on what your finish schedule ends up being here. I was doing a large candy apple truck job (multiple layers over a coarse metallic silver base) and had a piece of overhead door hardware crash into the nose on my final days of shooting. I was able to painstakingly go back and recreate my finish look and blend it by looking at my notes. A year and a half later a 70m.p.h. microburst of wind at a car show blew a piece of hardware into a fender on that same truck. Again, back to my notebook..... a real lifesaver. Get your look, lock it in, and write it all down. Gun settings, colors, layers, materials, and yes, even environmental factors including temp.s, relative humidity, etc.
Ditto on the experience with counter guys. Only knew a few that were actually shooters over all these years.

Cool car! A few tips when painting apart. Get more paint than you need. Then split it up into a few smaller cans, this way it will be consistent all the way through. If you can invest in a digital pressure regulator, they can be a little pricey but you will know exactly what your air pressure is when your spraying and it makes it real easy to see that its the same every time. Get a value shade sealer, if your spraying nason they will be able to tell you which one to use for your color, this will keep you from piling on more basecoat than necessary, this can cause color differences when painting apart. Try to use the same temp reducer through the whole job, reducer selection can cause differences in color or metallic orientation. And make sure you paint each piece the same way it sits on the car.

Chuck