Is this "urethane wave" ?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 2:30 pm
I was practicing my cut and buff on my test panel today. Sanded off all the OP with 1200 dry, with a DA sander and interface pad. Buffed with Meguiars 105 on a wool pad, then Meguiars 1 medium cut on a yellow foam pad, then Meguiars swirl remover on a black pad.

I'm growing more confident and will soon pull the truck into the shop to begin the process (you happy Novafreek? :happy: ).

Read some on urethane wave and was wondering if this is a good example of it. Just want to be clear on what it is.

I imagine the only way to avoid it is to wet-sand with a block (which is not going to happen)? Even with this "urethane wave," it will look way better than the inconsistent orange peel.

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I was actually trying to sand or burn through today, just to see how easy or hard it was. Never did. Probably because the clear is three weeks old now.

Note: I still had the plastic on the ceiling when the last picture was taken, so you are seeing that reflection. Took it down for the first and second picture.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 3:50 pm
Looks like it to me if you are positive it was straight before you painted it.
Did you lay the clear on fairly heavy?

For a show car look it is always best to shoot 3 coats of clear, wet sand using a hard block and 600 to level the clear and then shoot 2 more coats using a slow activator and reducer.

You could fix that by using a piece of Oak or hard plastic that is truly flat and work a 1'x1' square area at a time. When everything is flat move to 1000, etc. as normal then buff. Its tedious work but really pays off in the long run when perfection is your goal.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:17 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Looks like it to me if you are positive it was straight before you painted it.
Did you lay the clear on fairly heavy?

For a show car look it is always best to shoot 3 coats of clear, wet sand using a hard block and 600 to level the clear and then shoot 2 more coats using a slow activator and reducer.

You could fix that by using a piece of Oak or hard plastic that is truly flat and work a 1'x1' square area at a time. When everything is flat move to 1000, etc. as normal then buff. Its tedious work but really pays off in the long run when perfection is your goal.


This was a portion of undamaged quarter panel from my fender-bender with a school bus. It's got several coats on it. Original primer/base/clear then black epoxy primer, two coats of BC, two coats of acrylic enamel top coat (when I was deciding on a color), then another coat of black epoxy primer, then 2-3 more coats of base, then two wet coats of acrylic urethane, the clear I finally decided upon. Never once block sanded, only sanded smooth with 600 and DA before each set of BC/CC.

It sounds like I should get better results when I do my truck. I blocked the primer-surfacer with 180, resprayed primer-surfacer, blocked again with 600, sprayed (mucked up) a black epoxy primer sealer coat, wet-block-sanded the sealer coat, then the BC/CC.

Not gonna do what you suggested on a work truck; maybe when I buy a '72 Olds Cutlass Supreme to restore....one of these days. :happy:
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 12:42 am
natemoore wrote: Never once block sanded, only sanded smooth with 600 and DA before each set of BC/CC.


Therein lies the problem.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:27 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:
natemoore wrote: Never once block sanded, only sanded smooth with 600 and DA before each set of BC/CC.


Therein lies the problem.


The panel was for dialing in my spray gun settings. Never even thought about blocking it. I'm expecting my truck to turn out a lot better because it was blocked, twice, actually three times.

So it's not urethane wave, but it looks similar.

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:31 am
My first reply: "Looks like it to me if you are positive it was straight before you painted it."

The final results will always reflect the prep work. That's why we stress block sanding with coarser grits to get things straight, not pushing too hard on sanding blocks, using guide coat, etc. The better the prep - the nicer the finished product.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:28 pm
nate, you trying to make that truck your life's work or something!!?? Come on the masses need finished product!!! :flatten:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 6:26 pm
NOVAFREEK6872 wrote:nate, you trying to make that truck your life's work or something!!?? Come on the masses need finished product!!! :flatten:


I've had a setback. The aftermarket back window is leaking like a sieve. It's a cobbled together, poorly fitting POS that uses plastic wedges to fit the contour of the window frame. I contemplated sending it back, but I let the box get rained on.

I worried about the thing leaking when I installed it. I used the proper 3M primer and windshield urethane, paid close attention to the wedges, making sure I got plenty of urethane in back, on front, and at the butt joint where the two meet. Applied a tall bead of urethane to the window and the window frame, because the gap I saw when I dry-fit it was 3/8". It's leaking where the wedges are and at the miter joints in the extruded aluminum. $265 down the drain. Piece of crap. Maybe I'll make it into a garden decoration. :rolleyes:

I ordered an OEM back window and once again removed the rear seats, interior trim, seat belts, visors, overhead lights, and headliner (which was brand new and now has water stains). I've had two dehumidifiers in the truck for two days now trying to dry out the carpet.

I drove the wife's Hyundai Veracruz today. As always, I get stuck with a tank on empty when I borrow her car, so while I was filling up the tank, I noticed that the orange peel on her car is no better or worse than what's on my truck (except for the hood). So I can paint as well as a 16' tall South Korean robot, except without the height advantage. :)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 6:30 pm
NOVAFREEK6872 wrote:nate, you trying to make that truck your life's work or something!!?? Come on the masses need finished product!!! :flatten:


Oh, and I have been trying to remove the adhesive from the badges and molding...I say trying because that stuff is practically impossible to remove. I've had a piece soaking in Goo Gone for three days now, and it's just now getting to the consistency of Martian snot or something. I'm like, screw this, I'm ordering new molding...until I saw the price. :splat:

Wonder if 3M general purpose adhesive remover would do any better?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:21 pm
Wonder if 3M general purpose adhesive remover would do any better?


It works but I have found you need to practically flood the area you are working on continually. Makes a can start feeling empty sooner than you'd like.
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