Colorsanding with DA screws up a nice straight panel?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:07 pm
OK, so I was instructed to colorsand this mustang at work with a DA, 1500 dry then 3000 wet, went fine, no problems...held the DA flat to the car, interface pad and slowish speed. After I buffed the panel out it looks great when looking dead on, but when I look down the side I can see what I would describe as "micro waves" all down it. It's not what I would consider to be "urethane waves", seen them before.

What is up with this? I hand colorsanded my Nova and the other cars I've painted at home and never had this happen. And yes the panels were nice and straight before the paint went on the Mustang, guide coat, wet look test etc...

:knockout:



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 2:03 pm
You answered your own question. The DA with interface pad follows the paint finish, it does not cut it flat. If I want a glass finish, I hard block it wet before buffing. It should not take much to make that Mustang glasslike if you flow coated after cutting the first clear session with 800.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 5:14 pm
Are there different density interface pads? The one I have is pretty soft... it would be nice to find a happy medium between the std. DA pad and the interface pad I have which I got at the autobody supply and I think was 3M



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 11:50 pm
Man that car looked sooo good, you guys did a great job on that thing. Im very new to this but I don't think I'd ever feel comfortable dry sanding new clear....Im sure you'll figure it out, good luck.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:56 am
Dreww wrote:Man that car looked sooo good, you guys did a great job on that thing. Im very new to this but I don't think I'd ever feel comfortable dry sanding new clear....Im sure you'll figure it out, good luck.



Oh, yea, it'll be fine. Not going to have to redo anything... it's just something I noticed personally and would like to prevent on the next one... I'm just super picky. Just doing what I was told to do. Next one I do I'm going to DA the top surfaces and hard block down the sides

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 9:02 am
You can't remove "urethane wave" with fine grits like 1500.
Even a 1000 grit still leaves some wave.
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:47 am
JCCLARK wrote:You can't remove "urethane wave" with fine grits like 1500.
Even a 1000 grit still leaves some wave.

Urethane wave is a term overused and often incorrectly. Wave is caused by hammering on the clear much too heavy. Thin wet coats do not cause wave. I can hard block a properly cleared panel beginning with 1000 and it will be flat. Hose the clear on like an animal and an initial hard block pass with 800 will cut off the tops of the mess made.

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